Rising sharply above the rugged expanse of the Southern Sierra, the 5.8 trad climb on Forty Licks presents an approachable yet engaging challenge for climbers eager to take on solid hand cracks and classic crack climbing techniques. This single-pitch, 50-foot route kicks off with an inviting hand crack that demands confident jam placements, setting the tone for an energetic ascent. The rock, framed by Shuteye Ridge’s granite formations, feels responsive and alive beneath your fingers as you work upward through varied crack sizes. Midway, the climb shifts focus toward the distinctive Shuteye plates — broad, slightly textured holds that require precise footwork and body positioning to maneuver efficiently.

Above these plates, the climb transitions onto chicken heads, those roughly rounded knobs that clutch at your hands and feet offering welcome relief as well as a tactical puzzle of movement. The surrounding landscape offers brief but magnificent views of Chilkoot Lake shimmering below, while cool Sierra breezes cut through the trees along the approach, signaling the mountain’s high desert altitude.

Practical gear choices are critical here. Bring a well-rounded rack emphasizing smaller protection—nuts and cams sized up to 3 inches are essential. Careful placements on the crack will reward patience and precision, while the Mussey hook anchor at the top provides a secure and trusted belay point. The route’s moderate grade of 5.8 makes it accessible to eager intermediates while still testing footwork and crack climbing fluency.

Access to Forty Licks requires navigating the Shuteye Ridge area trail system, with a roughly 30-minute approach through mixed forest and granite outcroppings. The trail is moderately maintained but demands steady footing, especially in damp conditions. Arriving early in the day is recommended to avoid afternoon heat and to catch the benefits of morning shade that lingers along the north-facing wall.

Overall, this trad climb offers a straightforward but textured introduction to the granite cracks of the Southern Sierra. Whether you’re honing traditional skills or looking for a dependable route to expand your outdoor climbing resume, the Forty Licks climb delivers solid granite, sensible protection, and a satisfying exposure without overwhelming commitment.