HomeClimbing5.8, My Ass

5.8, My Ass: A Bold Trad Challenge at Thunder Ridge

Evergreen, Colorado United States
thin face
small gear
smearing
short approach
single pitch
technical
granite
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
5.8, My Ass
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"5.8, My Ass on Thunder Ridge bucks expectations with a technically smart single pitch blending delicate smears, thin face moves, and precise trad gear placements. It’s a compelling challenge for trad climbers seeking a sharp, accessible adventure close to Evergreen, Colorado."

5.8, My Ass: A Bold Trad Challenge at Thunder Ridge

Located on the right flank of the imposing Thunder Ridge wall, "5.8, My Ass" invites climbers to engage with a deceptively demanding route that defies initial expectations. This single-pitch line stretches roughly 80 feet through a delicate face climb that blends technical smearing at the start with thin, precise moves. The lower section challenges you to trust your feet on minimal holds, where the rock seems to test your balance and resolve. As you ascend, three bolts provide critical security before the route transitions into placements for smaller gear, demanding clean and confident protection skills. The wall of Thunder Ridge itself looms with quiet authority, its rough texture gripping the afternoon sun and casting sharp shadows that shift as the day unfolds. It’s a place where the rock speaks in subtle tones, rewarding measured movement and focus. This climb’s 5.9 PG13 rating hints at hidden cruxes that skew the grade upwards — straightforward at first glance but with a punchy challenge that asks you to maintain composure and technique.

To reach "5.8, My Ass," start at the Thunder Ridge parking area, a short but rocky approach trails you into the base of the climb. The path is well-trodden yet demands good footing, winding through sparse pines that whisper in the mountain breeze. This accessibility makes the route a popular choice for climbers looking to push their trad grades without a lengthy hike. The rock’s texture is varied—while the face is smooth and rounded in places, small edges and flakes provide essential incuts when carefully read. Protection consists primarily of fixed bolts early on, transitioning cleanly into smaller cams and nuts whose placements require a practiced eye. For those preparing here, a rack emphasizing small to micro gear will suit the climb best.

The climbing area itself lies in the West Creek sector of the South Platte, Colorado, a region celebrated for its granite features and reliable dry conditions through the spring and fall months. Thunder Ridge offers a rugged playground set against expansive mountain views, with the sun casting warm light on the face in the afternoon, making late day climbs particularly inviting. After topping out, descent is straightforward: a short walk down the accessible talus slopes leads safely back to the trailhead.

Whether you’re stepping up to sharpen your crack skills or to tackle technical face moves, "5.8, My Ass" blends challenge and practicality seamlessly. Approach with solid trad experience, sharp gear placement instincts, and a readiness to engage with the subtle demands of this bright granite wall. It’s a climb that rewards attention to detail and a calm mindset as much as physical strength.

Climber Safety

The combination of smearing on minimal holds and relying on small gear can catch climbers off guard. Double-check protection placements and move deliberately to avoid fall risks. Loose rock near the base requires vigilance on approach, especially after wet conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Bring a rack focused on small to micro protection for safe placements after bolts.

Start early to take advantage of the afternoon sun warming the shaded face.

Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for the crucial smearing moves low on the route.

Keep an eye on loose rock near the base; test holds carefully during your approach.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Though labeled 5.9 PG13, the route feels slightly stiffer than its grade implies due to the thin, slick face moves and careful gear placements. The crux comes after the bolts, where trusting subtle holds and solid technique raises the difficulty beyond a pure 5.8. Compared to other local trad climbs, it challenges climbers to blend smooth footwork with sharp protection instincts.

Gear Requirements

Use three fixed bolts at the start for security before transitioning to well-placed small gear. A rack with a solid selection of small cams and nuts is essential for safe protection on this delicate face climb.

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Tags

thin face
small gear
smearing
short approach
single pitch
technical
granite