"Choss Garden delivers a hands-on trad climb that tests your patience and skill across moss-covered cracks and a low-angle chimney. This gritty three-pitch route blends delicate protection with exposed scrambling, rewarding those ready to embrace rock’s unpredictable edge."
The 5.8 Chimney, known locally as "Choss Garden," offers an unfiltered encounter with raw, rugged rock chemistry on The Turret’s northeast corner. This three-pitch trad climb spreads across 300 feet of varied terrain where moss-lined cracks give way to a low-angle chimney that demands steady hands and a clear head. The climb begins at a modest 30-degree north compass bearing. Pitch one asks for a blend of crack climbing and chimney technique over 160 feet, starting with mossy fissures that, while offering reasonable protection, require cautious placements. The crux emerges about 15 feet up a tight chimney section, protected by a #3 Camalot wedged cautiously into fragile rock that will test your confidence. Beyond the crux, a pair of chockstones—one smaller, one larger off to the left—require delicate movement, transitioning into a scramble that leads to a belay station.
From here, the route moves south through a narrow corridor, then traverses left, tunneling eastward for about 30 feet before a final scramble up Class 4 terrain deposits you on a rocky plateau. This vantage point reveals the towering north and south summit blocks ahead. Pitch two provides a chance to pause and survey your route with a long sling anchored to a prominent knob as your holdfast.
The final pitch, a 60-foot stretch rated 5.6 X, ventures into an exposed zone where loose flakes beckon careful negotiation. Step across a notch and mantle onto an oversized, precarious flake that looms with uncertainty—this section’s rock quality demands respect and razor-sharp focus. The climb finishes with a careful ascent over unstable, rotten flakes and crystal patches, culminating on the summit area, which unusually harbors an ancient fixed pin hinting at past ventures. Here, climbers have established two modern bolts and a rappel ring on the eastern face, oriented roughly 45 degrees north. Descending requires an exposed, unroped, fourth-class traverse to reach the rappel anchor, a move that rewards climbers who keep wits about them. The rappel itself spans a full 160 feet, and rope handling is straightforward from this point.
Protection calls for a set of cams from #1 to #4, preferably doubles, as nuts and hexes tend to slip or fail in this brittle, crumbly rock. Every placement needs a discerning eye; the rock’s chossy nature means fell placements are a constant risk. The potential for the hanging flake’s eventual failure means this last pitch is something of a free solo on unreliable terrain, so only climbers with solid experience in loose rock tactics should attempt the summit push. Overall, "Choss Garden" is a grit-stained reminder that not all climbs are about aesthetic perfection; some demand an embrace of the rough and unpredictable with tempered respect and preparation.
Approaching The Turret is accessible with a reasonable hike through mixed forest and granite outcrops, placing you among classic South Platte surroundings. Weather and wear have marked this route, so condition reports and a solid understanding of protection placement will pay dividends. Given the exposed nature of the descent and the delicate summit terrain, bringing plenty of slings, runners, and a sharp sense of situational awareness is essential. Whether you’re looking to tune your chimney skills, challenge yourself on a varied three-pitch route, or simply face rock in its rawest form, "Choss Garden" offers a memorable, hands-on Colorado trad experience.
Fragile rock and loose flakes dominate this climb; question every placement carefully. The exposed rappel and fourth-class traverse from the summit require care, especially after wet weather. The hanging flake on pitch three will eventually fail, so don’t rely on it for crucial moves or protection.
Mount sturdy shoes with good edging for mossy and slippery cracks.
Check weather conditions; wet rock increases hazard on the exposure and loose flakes.
Descend by lowering from summit bolts, then rappel 160 feet; avoid solo downclimbs on the unstable flakes.
Carry extra slings and runners to back up the questionable anchor placements.
Bring a full range of cams from #1 to #4, ideally doubles due to questionable rock quality. Avoid relying on nuts or hexes as the rock can fail these placements. Multiple runners and long slings will ease protecting the chimney crux and setting up the summit rappel anchors.
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