HomeClimbing2nd Apron Far Left

2nd Apron Far Left at Mt. Evans

Idaho Springs, Colorado United States
alpine
slab
runout
traditional protection
multi-pitch
Colorado granite
exposed
variable pro
Length: 780 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
2nd Apron Far Left
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The 2nd Apron Far Left line at Mt. Evans offers a gritty, alpine trad climb across sunlit granite slabs with a mix of delicate smears and runout pitches. Less traveled than the adjacent routes, it challenges climbers with marginal protection and authentic slab moves high in Colorado’s alpine zone."

2nd Apron Far Left at Mt. Evans

The 2nd Apron Far Left route at Mt. Evans offers a grounded yet challenging alpine trad experience for climbers ready to explore less-trodden lines on this granite slab. Found in the harsh beauty of Colorado’s alpine zones, this route demands both careful planning and respect for its variable protection and runout sections. Unlike the more traveled Right and Center lines on the same apron, this leftmost route has a rougher character that rewards those willing to probe its subtle features. Here, the granite listens to your every move—its textures shifting from solid cracks to worn, rounded faces that test balance and commitment.

Starting low on a slab intersected by a thin, inviting crack, you quickly realize this climb keeps you honest. Protection is sparse in places, with only a single pin memory about 40 feet in, followed by fragile gear opportunities and runout moves that encourage measured decisions and controlled movement. The first pitch weaves around a shallow left-facing dihedral with limited pro, forcing a cautious rhythm as you dance across the rock, aiming for secure stances along a zigzagging crack system. The terrain here can feel exposed, and a fall could mean a long drop to the slab below.

Ascending higher, the route opens onto a broader apron with better granite quality, allowing you to trust your placements a bit more. A landmark flake sits beside a thin crack perfect for wires; these passages lead you past bulging headwalls that demand concentrated moves. Midway through, the climb becomes more intricate—a left-facing dihedral hosts delicate patches of lichen and moss that require subtle footwork and balance to navigate without losing traction.

The crux resides near the apex of pitch three, where the rock narrows into an A-shaped overlap. Here, thoughtful protection placements and controlled smearing combine with finger and hand cracks to reward steady technique. The upper pitches move you through slabs and short arêtes to large ledges where rest and gear adjustments become opportunities rather than necessities.

This route suits those comfortable with loose rock in sections, some slightly crumbly holds, and a temperament matched to runout alpine climbs. It’s best tackled with a single set of cams up to 3 ½ inches, wires, and hexes—finer pro is scarce in places, so knowing where to punch in gear is key. A 60-meter rope works well on the 780-foot length spread over five pitches.

Access is straightforward with a mild approach across alpine terrain—the climb catches sun until mid-afternoon in August, making early starts ideal to avoid overheating and ensure optimal rock conditions. Phones tend to have reception here, providing a measure of connection in an otherwise remote setting.

Descending calls for care: you’ll head down and right into a loose gully beside the more familiar right apron. Contouring upward along that apron’s edge brings you back to the climb’s base. Several escape options exist on lower pitches through less technical 3rd-4th class ramps, offering flexibility depending on conditions or climber preference.

For those seeking a trad alpine climb with a blend of runout sections, variable pro, and authentic alpine granite character, 2nd Apron Far Left delivers a memorable, practical challenge. Prepare carefully, move deliberately, and let the granite guide your pace on this solid, thoughtfully exposed journey.

Climber Safety

Watch for sections with limited gear where a slip could result in significant falls onto ledgeless slabs. Some holds, especially on pitch four, show signs of crumbly texture—move with control. Approach and descent terrain can be loose; secure footing critical to avoid rockfall or slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches5
Length780 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat as the wall basks in sun until about 2:30pm in August.

Bring extra chalk and tape due to smooth slab sections and delicate smearing.

Be prepared for sparse gear placements and runout pitches; experience with alpine protection is essential.

Descend with caution via the loose gully on the right side of the rightmost apron for safest exit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8 with runout (R) protection, this route tests both comfort on slab and mental focus. The grade aligns with mid-range Colorado alpine climbs, but the protection feels sparse in stretches, giving the rating a solid feel rather than a soft one. Climbers familiar with the Right and Center aprons will find this line more committing due to fewer placements and longer runouts.

Gear Requirements

Single set of cams to 3.5", wires, and hexes make up the critical protection rack; fixed pins are sparse and placements become trickier above pitch one. A 60m rope is recommended for safe pitch transitions.

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Tags

alpine
slab
runout
traditional protection
multi-pitch
Colorado granite
exposed
variable pro