"Experience a classic two-pitch trad climb threading a chimney and crack system on The Red Slab’s reddish face. This route blends steady crack jamming with a steep gully, offering climbers a rewarding 5.8 challenge framed by Clear Creek Canyon’s raw beauty."
Situated just right of the well-known "Slip It In" route, the 1976 Crack Chimney offers a straightforward but engaging two-pitch trad climb that cuts through a compelling chimney and crack system. This line draws the climber’s attention with a mix of wide chimney moves and crack jamming, anchored by a steep gully that demands steady feet and good technique. Starting at the unmistakable reddish face of The Red Slab, the route quickly settles into a rhythm that balances effortful chimneying with moments of breath and exposure. After topping out on a spacious ledge, the climb veers left onto the west side of the rock, continuing through a major gully and corner system that pushes gently upward until reaching the final visible crack that marks the end of the ascent.
The approach places you in the heart of Clear Creek Canyon, near Golden, Colorado, where the landscape flexes between rugged rock and open sky. The Red Slab, with its deep orange hues, contrasts vividly with the surrounding granite shoulders and pine-framed ridges. This climb’s protection calls for a standard rack extending from small cams to #11 hexes, offering solid placements along the crack’s length. While technically moderate at 5.8, the route’s combined chimney and crack sections present a gratifying test for trad climbers comfortable with hands and feet locked into natural rock features.
Expect a mostly shaded climb through mid-morning as the western aspects hold a cooler temperature, ideal for summer or fall outings. The rock, well-weathered but still reliable, demands attention to each placement, especially in chimney sections where backs and boots interface with abrasive stone. Descending from the climb is straightforward — a short walk-off from the top ledge brings you back to the base, minimizing the need for complex rappels or downclimbing.
For climbers eyeing a blend of manageable difficulty and classic traditional movement, the 1976 Crack Chimney grants both a solid workout and an opportunity to soak in the Glen Canyon atmosphere. Its location within Clear Creek Canyon ensures accessibility for a day trip, backed by the convenience of Golden’s amenities. Proper footwear with stiff soles will aid edging on the slabby sections and chimney heels, while water and a light pack keep the approach and summit comfortable. This route's blend of crack climbing and chimney technique encourages a full-body engagement, leaving climbers with a genuinely satisfying ascent and a taste of Colorado’s diverse trad climbing palate.
The chimney sections require careful foot placement on abrasive but uneven stone; loose debris can accumulate at the base, so check footholds before trusting them fully. Avoid this climb after heavy rain to reduce the risk of slippery rock and unstable holds.
Start the climb early to avoid afternoon sun on the west-facing rock.
Wear stiff-soled climbing shoes for better edging on the slabby and chimney sections.
Check weather forecasts carefully; wet rock can make chimney moves tricky and unsafe.
Bring a light pack with hydration – the approach and summit waits benefit from staying refreshed.
Carry a standard trad rack ranging from small cams to #11 hexes to tackle the wide crack and chimney sections safely. Ensure you have pieces suitable for both narrow cracks and chimney jam spots.
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