High and Wild: Crossing Paul da Serra Plateau, Madeira’s Wind-Swept Roof
Explore Madeira’s high plain by jeep or by boot—wind-swept views, levada headwaters, and easy access from Funchal.
On a clear morning the plateau reveals itself in stages: first a peel of low cloud clinging to the island’s steep flanks, then the wind—a dry, continuous hand—brushing past you as the land flattens into an unlikely, high-altitude plain. Paul da Serra Plateau feels like Madeira’s answer to a moor: a wide, exposed table of heather, peat bogs, and tussock grass where the sky seems to press closer and the Atlantic horizon unfurls like a gray-blue promise. Hike a short circuit here and you are soon aware of how isolated this flat top is—despite being only an hour from Funchal, the plateau opens into a remote, weather-sculpted landscape that has shaped the island’s water, its roads, and its trails.
Trail Wisdom
Layer for wind and sun
The plateau changes fast—pack a windproof shell and sun protection even if the valley below is mild.
Use good traction
Peaty ground and service roads can be slick; trail shoes with grippy soles or light hiking boots are best.
Start early
Clouds often build by midday—morning light gives the clearest vistas and calmer winds.
Combine modes
Pair a short hike with a 4x4 tour to cover more terrain and see Fanal and Porto Moniz in one day.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Fanal’s moss-draped laurel groves—arrive early to avoid fog
- •Encumeada viewpoint for a cross-island perspective before descending to Ribeira Brava
Wildlife
Trocaz pigeon (Madeira laurel pigeon), Madeiran chaffinch
Conservation Note
The plateau’s peat and levada headwaters are sensitive; stay on established tracks, avoid disturbing bogs, and use local guides to minimize impact.
Paul da Serra has long been used for seasonal grazing and water capture; its plateau soils feed multiple levadas that enabled agriculture across Madeira.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: wildflowers and birdwatching, long daylight and mild temps
Challenges: muddy sections after rain, changeable weather
Spring brings floral color and comfortable temperatures—expect some boggy patches after winter rains.
summer
Best for: clear vistas, combining plateau with coastal swims
Challenges: strong sun and gusty winds, sporadic afternoon clouds
Summer offers the clearest views and warm coastal stops, but bring sun protection and a wind layer.
fall
Best for: dramatic skies and fewer crowds, ideal levada flows
Challenges: increasing rain and wind storms
Autumn shows storm-swept drama and lively levadas—check forecasts for wind and rain.
winter
Best for: moody landscapes and solitude, bird activity on sheltered days
Challenges: cold temps, fog and poor visibility, peaty bogs become more treacherous
Winter can be raw and atmospheric; visibility varies, and service roads may be wet or fog-bound.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Windproof shellEssential
Blocks the plateau’s persistent winds and seals in warmth when clouds move in.
Sturdy trail shoesEssential
Provides traction on peaty, rocky, and service-road surfaces common on the plateau.
Hydration system (1–2 L)Essential
Open, exposed landscape and variable routes mean you should carry sufficient water.
Compact binoculars
Enhances birding and lets you scan distant laurisilva pockets and coastline from viewpoints.
Common Questions
How long does it take to get to Paul da Serra from Funchal?
Driving under normal conditions takes about 45–75 minutes depending on route and traffic; guided 4x4 tours often include multiple stops.
Are there marked hiking trails on the plateau?
Yes—there are short circuits and feeder paths connecting to levadas and forested areas, but some sections are unmarked service roads so use a map or guide.
Is the plateau suitable for beginners?
Short hikes are accessible to beginners with reasonable fitness, but wind, exposure, and boggy ground mean good footwear and layering are essential.
Can I visit Paul da Serra by public transport?
Public transport is limited; most visitors arrive by car, taxi, or on guided 4x4 excursions which are the most convenient option.
What wildlife might I see?
Expect birds such as the trocaz pigeon and Madeiran chaffinch, plus occasional endemic plant species and insects adapted to the plateau’s peat bogs.
Is swimming possible near the plateau?
Not on the plateau itself—but many 4x4 tours descend to coastal spots like Porto Moniz, where natural lava pools offer swimming opportunities.
What to Pack
windproof jacket, sturdy trail shoes, 1–2 L water, sun protection—protects against wind, uneven ground, dehydration, and sun exposure.
Did You Know
Paul da Serra is Madeira’s largest plateau, averaging about 1,300–1,500 meters elevation and serving as the source area for many of the island’s levadas—artificial channels that supply water to lower terraces and towns.
Quick Travel Tips
Start early to avoid cloud build-up; combine plateau time with Fanal or Porto Moniz in a single day; hire a local guide for off-road access and history; bring layered clothing and waterproofs.
Local Flavor
Pair a plateau morning with lunch in a west-coast village—try black scabbardfish or espetada (skewered beef) in Ribeira Brava, and sample local poncha, a sugarcane spirit, to toast the views.
Logistics Snapshot
Know-before-you-go: 45–75 minute drive from Funchal; small-group 4x4 tours available; short hikes and levada walks accessible—bring layers and good shoes.
Sustainability Note
Respect fragile peat bogs and levada headwaters: stay on established routes, avoid trampling vegetation, and support local guides who help manage visitor impact.