Between Fire and Ice: Hiking Fimmvörðuháls, Iceland’s Volcanic High Route
A high volcanic pass between glaciers — where fresh lava meets ancient ice
You round the last bend below Skógafoss and the roar of water gives way to wind, gravel, and a horizon of black and white. On one side, a jagged glacier clings to a dome of ice; on the other, a raw line of lava fields and fresh rock — the dramatic geography that marks Fimmvörðuháls. The trail forces you to trade the soft, birch-fringed lowlands for a lunar slope where every step pitches you between two great forces: the cold, shuffling ice of Mýrdalsjökull and the hot, recent scars of volcanic fire.
Trail Wisdom
Start at first light
Begin early to avoid afternoon winds and give yourself margin for river crossings and slow sections.
Carry microspikes in shoulder seasons
Snow patches persist into summer; microspikes or light crampons make ascents and descents safer.
Filter water from streams
Streams are plentiful but treatable — carry a filter or purification tablets for safety.
Use trekking poles
Poles stabilize you on scree and reduce knee strain on long descents into Þórsmörk.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •A viewpoint just above the 2010 crater field that offers unobstructed views of Magni and Móði
- •The moss-carpeted river terraces descending into Þórsmörk that feel like a different ecosystem
Wildlife
Arctic fox (rare sightings), Ptarmigan and migratory waders in summer
Conservation Note
Stick to marked trails to protect fragile moss and lichen that take decades to regrow; local land managers limit camping to designated sites to reduce erosion.
Fimmvörðuháls has long served as a high route between valleys in southern Iceland; the 2010 fissure eruption created new craters that altered the ridge.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: watching winter melt patterns, fewer crowds
Challenges: persistent snow and icy patches, cold, unpredictable weather
Late spring (May–early June) can still hold deep snow and swollen rivers; only attempt with winter gear or a guide.
summer
Best for: classic hiking conditions, long daylight and wildflowers
Challenges: crowds on peak days, occasional late-season snow
Mid-June through August is the most reliable window for clear trails, hut access and shuttle services.
fall
Best for: lonely trails, dramatic light and lower insect activity
Challenges: shortening days, early snowstorms
September offers crisp air and color but prepare for wind and the possibility of early winter conditions.
winter
Best for: experienced mountaineers seeking solitude, aurora views if conditions permit
Challenges: deep snow, avalanche risk, river ice, need for advanced glacier and winter skills
Winter should only be attempted with full alpine gear and local guide support; many access roads are closed.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Waterproof hiking bootsEssential
Sturdy, waterproof boots protect against scree and stream crossings while supporting ankles on uneven terrain.
Microspikes or light cramponsEssential
Useful for lingering snow patches and icy sections early and late in the season.
Lightweight tent or hut reservation
Overnighting lets you split the route and catch sunrise on the ridge; huts require advance booking.
Trekking polesEssential
Poles improve balance on scree and reduce strain during sustained ascents and descents.
Common Questions
How long is the Fimmvörðuháls hike?
The classic one-way route measures roughly 22–25 km with about 900–1,100 m of cumulative ascent; many hikers split it into an overnight or do it as a long day.
When is the best time to hike Fimmvörðuháls?
Mid-June through August offers the most stable trail conditions and shuttle services; outside that window be prepared for snow and limited access.
Do I need a guide?
Not strictly in high summer if you have navigation experience, but a guide is recommended in early/late season or if you lack river-crossing and snow-travel skills.
Are there shelters or huts along the route?
Basic huts and mountain cabins exist in Þórsmörk and nearby valleys; book in advance during summer. Camping is possible on permitted sites.
How do I get back to Skógar or Reykjavik?
Seasonal buses and private shuttles run between Reykjavik, Skógar and Þórsmörk in summer; coordinate a one-way transfer or plan a loop itinerary.
Is the trail suitable for children?
The route includes exposed and technical sections; older, experienced children could manage with frequent rests, but it’s not ideal for very young kids.
What to Pack
Waterproof boots, microspikes, layered waterproof jacket, water filter — for traction, weather protection, and safe hydration.
Did You Know
In March 2010 fissure eruptions on Fimmvörðuháls produced two new craters named Magni and Móði; this eruption preceded the larger Eyjafjallajökull eruption that disrupted European air travel.
Quick Travel Tips
Book hut spots early; check the Icelandic Met Office (Vedur.is) for forecasts; plan one-way transport in advance; pack a map and offline GPS track.
Local Flavor
Stop at Skógar for the folk museum and Skógafoss before you start; celebrate a successful day with hearty Icelandic stews or fresh lamb in Hvolsvöllur or Reykjavik.
Logistics Snapshot
Start point: Skógar (near Skógafoss); end point: Þórsmörk; distance: ~22–25 km; ascent: ~900–1,100 m; best time: mid-June–Aug; transport: seasonal buses and shuttles from Reykjavik.
Sustainability Note
Use established trails and campsites to protect delicate moss and geothermal soils; pack out all waste and respect local guidelines to preserve this active landscape.