Fatal Avalanche on Mt. McKinley’s Rescue Gully: Lessons in Mountain Risk
A tragic avalanche on Mt. McKinley’s Rescue Gully claimed a life in June 2025, highlighting the sharp risks of high-altitude climbing. Understanding the mountain’s avalanche dynamics and preparation strategies is critical for any adventurer taking on Denali’s West Buttress route.
Trail Tips
Always Carry Avalanche Equipment
A beacon, probe, and shovel can make the difference between life and death in avalanche terrain. Ensure your gear is in working order and you’re trained in its use.
Monitor Weather and Snow Conditions
Warm days and heavy snowfall increase avalanche risk. Check updated forecasts and avalanche bulletins daily before and during your climb.
Climb with Experienced Partners or Guides
Knowledgeable companions can assess conditions, share the load, and coordinate rescue if needed. Solo trips on McKinley’s steep routes carry significantly higher dangers.
Maintain High Situational Awareness
Avalanches can trigger unexpectedly, so limit time spent on avalanche-prone slopes. Move steadily and scan the terrain for signs of instability.
Fatal Avalanche on Mt. McKinley’s Rescue Gully: Lessons in Mountain Risk
Mt. McKinley’s Rescue Gully, a steep snow-laden corridor on the West Buttress route, revealed its dangerous side on June 10, 2025. At 6:15 p.m., a soft slab avalanche swept through the slope just below Rescue Gully’s 17,200-foot start above Camp 14. Nicholas Vizzini, 29, from Washington State, and his partner—a snowboarder—were descending when they triggered the slide. While the partner was spotted on the debris surface and survived with minor injuries, Vizzini was found mostly buried and tragically succumbed to traumatic injuries despite rescue efforts.
This incident underscores how Rescue Gully, often approached as a pathway carved by snow and ice, remains a fierce force of nature. Its steep walls, beginning around 16,600 feet, funnel loose snow with lethal speed down to about 15,000 feet. Fixed lines and route markings at the base hint at human attempts to tame this mountain, but the avalanche hazard here is never far from sight or mind.
Two mountaineering rangers en route on an acclimatization climb witnessed the accident and initiated a rapid beacon search and excavation. Despite their swift response, the violent power of the avalanche was unforgiving. The rescue and recovery operation ended with Vizzini’s body flown to Talkeetna.
The fatal avalanche marks the second death on Mt. McKinley (Denali) by early June this year, following a 3,000-foot fall of another climber just days earlier. Historically, avalanche-related deaths on the mountain number around 13 within more than 130 total fatalities, emphasizing the persistent risks for the 500 climbers currently attempting this iconic peak.
Planning a safe ascent or descent on Mt. McKinley requires deep respect for weather and snow conditions. Avalanche risk is highest in late spring and early summer when warming temperatures destabilize snowpacks. Avalanche awareness, carrying beacons, probes, and shovels, and climbing with experienced partners and guides remains essential.
Rescue Gully’s steep, icy terrain tests both technical skill and cautious judgment. The mountain commands full attention; it is a presence that pushes climbers to balance ambition with humility. For those drawn to Denali, this tragedy serves as a sober reminder: every step in the high alpine is a negotiation with forces both beautiful and fierce.
Recommended Gear
Avalanche Transceiver (Beacon)
Vital for locating buried climbers quickly in case of avalanche.
spring specific
Ice Axe and Crampons
Necessary for secure movement on icy and steep snow slopes.
spring specific
Layered Insulation Clothing
Protects against strong winds and temperature swings common on Denali.
spring specific
Shovel and Probe
Critical for avalanche rescue operations and snow stability assessment.
spring specific
Frequently Asked Questions
What caused the avalanche on Rescue Gully?
The avalanche was a soft slab triggered by the skier and snowboarder while descending, likely due to unstable snow layers weakened by warming temperatures.
How common are avalanches on Mt. McKinley?
Avalanches have contributed to approximately 13 deaths historically on Denali, making avalanche awareness crucial for all climbers on the mountain.
When is the safest time to climb Mt. McKinley?
The climbing season runs from early May to early July. However, the safest windows are often when temperatures are stable and snowpack conditions are firm, typically in late May to early June.
What rescue resources are available on Denali?
The National Park Service maintains a team of trained mountaineering rangers who conduct acclimatization climbs and rescue operations, though response time can vary widely due to conditions.
What technical skills are essential for this route?
Competence in snow and ice climbing, use of crampons and ice axes, glacier travel skills, rope team techniques, and avalanche rescue training are all essential.
How can I prepare for the avalanche risk on Rescue Gully?
Preparation involves carrying appropriate rescue gear, staying updated on avalanche forecasts, learning to identify unstable snow, and following safe travel protocols like spacing and route selection.
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Local Insights
Hidden Gems
- "Peters Glacier viewpoints off the West Buttress provide spectacular perspectives rarely seen by most climbers."
- "The cliffs near Camp 14 offer an often-overlooked vantage point for photographing the vast Talkeetna Mountains."
Wildlife
- "Mountain goats and Dall sheep can be spotted in lower alpine areas, though they tend to avoid steep avalanche-prone slopes."
- "Golden eagles patrol the high ridges, often riding thermals with effortless grace."
History
"Denali’s West Buttress route has been a climbing pathway since the 1950s and maintains rich stories of exploration and survival, marked by numerous memorial plaques along the approach trail."