Black Fly & Blue Sky: Summer Camping on the Big Two-Hearted River in Michigan

Marquette moderate Difficulty

The Big Two-Hearted River in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula offers a rugged and rewarding summer camping experience defined by forest trails, flowing currents, and vibrant wildlife. Whether you’re chasing solitude or angling for trout, this classic wilderness destination asks you to come prepared and stay present.

Trail Tips

Bring Insect Protection

Black flies are relentless from late May through July; treated clothing and head nets significantly reduce bites and boost comfort.

Use Water Filtration

Though the river looks inviting, always filter or boil river water before drinking to avoid waterborne illnesses.

Wear Trail-Ready Footwear

The route includes wet, rocky sections near the riverbank; waterproof boots or sturdy trail shoes with good traction improve safety.

Start Early in the Day

Morning departures let you avoid peak black fly activity and afternoon heat, making the hike and camping experience more pleasant.

Activity Level

moderate Difficulty
3-4 hours one way for average hikers

Requires steady endurance for a 12-mile round trip with uneven terrain and elevation changes up to 300 feet.

Photography Tips

Best Times

Early morning for soft light and calmer river reflections
Golden hour before sunset for warm tones and enhanced foliage colors

Best Viewpoints

  • Dead Man’s Crack bend for close-ups of twisted roots
  • Ridge trail east of the river for sweeping river valley shots

Black Fly & Blue Sky: Summer Camping on the Big Two-Hearted River in Michigan

The Big Two-Hearted River offers a rugged invitation to campers willing to step into a world where black flies buzz like vigilant sentries and the sky stretches wide and unapologetic above. This stretch of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula challenges you with forest trails that lean heavy with pines, brambles that snag your sleeves, and the river’s current that pushes insistently downstream. It’s a place fiercely itself, demanding respect and rewarding effort.

Starting from Day Use Area 1 off M-123, expect roughly 6 miles one way to reach prime camping spots along the riverbanks. The hike’s moderate elevation consists of gentle rises and dips—nothing extreme, but enough to keep your attention. The terrain is mostly packed earth, moss-padded roots, and patches of sand near the river’s edge. Watch for wet spots where the forest floor softens beneath your boots.

Camping here means more than pitching a tent; it’s syncing with the rhythm of an environment that pulses with life. The river dares you to stay alert: trout dart in the currents, while swarms of black flies insist on marking their territory. These insects, while bothersome, are part of summer’s pulse. Come prepared with treated clothing and head nets to keep their constant company manageable.

Hydration is key—carry enough water or bring a reliable filtration system. The river’s clarity is tempting, but filtration safeguards your experience. Footwear that grips wet rocks and resists abrasion will save you missteps on the uneven approach to your campsite. Set out early to beat the midday heat, and savor the early morning calm when the fly swarms thin and the sky glows softening the pine shadows.

Whether fishing in the current’s edge or roasting dinner under the open sky’s expanse, the Big Two-Hearted demands a steady pace and careful preparation. It’s an adventure that strips back distractions and calls you into a primal engagement with the wild—one measured step at a time.

Recommended Gear

Head Net

Essential

A lightweight insect head net reduces black fly bites and allows you to keep your head free while moving and camping.

summer specific

Water Filter Pump

Essential

Filters out bacteria and parasites from river water so you can refill without carrying heavy supplies.

null specific

Waterproof Hiking Boots

Essential

Protects feet from wet, rocky terrain and maintains grip on slippery surfaces near the river.

null specific

Lightweight Tent with Good Ventilation

Essential

Provides shelter while allowing airflow to stay comfortable during warmer nights.

summer specific

Seasonal Guide

spring Hiking

Spring brings melting snow and swollen river currents. Trails can be muddy, and black flies start emerging late in the season. Wildlife activity ramps up, making it a great season for observation but plan for wet conditions.

Best For:

  • wildflower viewing
  • birdwatching

Challenges:

  • muddy trails
  • high water levels

summer Hiking

Summer is ideal for river activities and camping. Black flies are most active in June and July, and afternoon heat can be intense. Early mornings offer cooler conditions and fewer insects.

Best For:

  • camping
  • fishing
  • canoeing

Challenges:

  • black flies
  • high temperatures

fall Hiking

Fall delivers crisp air and brilliant foliage. Black fly activity drops sharply. Cooler nights require warm gear, but the quieter trails and vibrant colors make it a rewarding time.

Best For:

  • hiking
  • photography
  • wildlife spotting

Challenges:

  • shorter daylight
  • cooler temperatures

winter Hiking

Winter brings snow and ice that transform the landscape. Access to campsites may be limited, and preparation for cold weather is essential. The quiet beauty of the frozen forest is unique but requires specialized skills and gear.

Best For:

  • snowshoeing
  • cross-country skiing

Challenges:

  • snow cover
  • limited access

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to avoid black flies on the Big Two-Hearted River?

The black fly season peaks between late May and mid-July. Early morning hikes or visits in late summer and fall see far fewer insects, offering more comfortable conditions.

Are permits required for camping along the river?

No permits are necessary for dispersed camping along the Big Two-Hearted River within the national forest boundaries, but practicing Leave No Trace principles is important.

Is the river safe for swimming or canoeing?

The river flows swiftly, with some shallow and deeper spots. Swimming is possible but requires caution. Canoeing is popular during summer but beware of currents and check water levels before setting out.

What wildlife might I see during the trip?

Expect to see white-tailed deer, beavers, kingfishers, and possibly otters. Early morning and dusk are prime times for wildlife sightings.

Can I fish along the Big Two-Hearted River?

Absolutely. The river is renowned for trout fishing. Michigan fishing licenses are required, and anglers should respect fishing regulations to protect native populations.

What is the terrain like on the trail to camping spots?

Trails are composed of packed dirt, tree roots, mossy patches, and some sand near the river. Elevation changes are moderate; however, care is needed in wet or rocky areas.

Local Insights

Hidden Gems

  • "A seldom-visited bend called Dead Man’s Crack offers dramatic overturned pine roots that create natural sculptures along the riverbank."
  • "A narrow ridge trail east of the main river path gives panoramic views not commonly seen by day hikers."

Wildlife

  • "Black-backed woodpeckers inhabit the forest, especially after wildfires have cleared sections nearby."
  • "Eastern massasauga rattlesnakes are rare but present in the area, primarily in wetland edges—respect their space and stay vigilant."

History

"The Big Two-Hearted River area was a logging hub in the early 1900s, with remnants of old logging camps and piles of sawdust now reclaimed by the forest. Ernest Hemingway’s stories elevated its cultural significance."