Ultimate Guide to Intermediate Climbing in New River Gorge

Ultimate Guide to Intermediate Climbing in New River Gorge

The New River Gorge in West Virginia is a climber's paradise, offering a plethora of routes that cater to all skill levels. Among these, the intermediate climbs stand out for their perfect blend of challenge and beauty, providing climbers with an unforgettable experience amidst the rugged landscapes of the gorge. This guide delves into the best intermediate climbs, offering insights into the history, unique features, and essential tips for visitors.

Recommended Intermediate Climbs

1. Junkyard Wall

• Location: Central New River Gorge
• Features: A variety of routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12, Junkyard Wall is ideal for climbers looking to transition from beginner to more challenging routes. The area is known for its solid rock and interesting features such as cracks, flakes, and face climbs.
• History: Named for the nearby automotive graveyard, this area has a quirky backstory that adds to the climbing experience. Over the years, it has evolved from a climbers' secret to a beloved spot in the climbing community.

2. Kaymoor Slabs

• Location: South New River Gorge
• Features: With its smooth, technical slabs and routes rated from 5.8 to 5.11, Kaymoor offers climbers a chance to test their precision and balance. The area is renowned for its scenic views and the serene atmosphere that surrounds the slabs.
• Local Knowledge: Kaymoor is also a historical site, once home to one of the largest coal mines in the gorge. Climbers can explore remnants of this past, adding a unique cultural element to their adventure.

Visitor Essentials

• Best Time to Visit: Spring and fall offer the most comfortable climbing conditions, avoiding the summer heat and winter chill.
• Gear: Ensure you have a helmet, harness, climbing shoes, and a rope. Local outfitters can provide rentals if needed.
• Safety: Always climb with a partner and inform someone of your climbing plans. Consider hiring a local guide if you're unfamiliar with the routes.

Getting There

From the main area of New River Gorge near Fayetteville, WV, both Junkyard Wall and Kaymoor Slabs are easily accessible. For Junkyard Wall, head south on US-19 for about 10 minutes, then follow the signs to the Junkyard Wall parking area. Kaymoor Slabs are a bit further south, with a drive time of around 20 minutes from Fayetteville. Detailed directions are available at the New River Gorge Visitor Center.

Climbing at New River Gorge offers not just an opportunity to challenge oneself but also a chance to connect with the rich history and stunning natural beauty of the area. Whether you're scaling the heights of Junkyard Wall or balancing on the slabs of Kaymoor, the experiences here will elevate your climbing journey to new heights.