The ferry slips from Stewart Island into Paterson Inlet and the shoreline breathes — white sand coves and bronze headlands fold into the slow pulse of the sea. Onboard, the guide points out a rookery of New Zealand fur seals basking on rocks while you round Prices Inlet; gulls and terns wheel like punctuation marks in the sky. The boat eases into a protected bay and the real reward waits ashore: a 45‑minute walking tour through Ulva Island Wildlife Sanctuary, where ancient rata and kahikatea trees throw deep shade and the birds move through the understory with confident curiosity.