Dawn at Nalemoru carries a different light—cool, thin and bright against cypress trunks as porters stoke stoves and tents still hold last night's warmth. You shoulder a pack and step onto the Rongai route: a northerly approach that rises steadily from montane forest through heather moorland onto the alpine desert. The path favors patient climbing over sudden pitches, giving you time to read the mountain: Mawenzi's jagged tooth to the east, Kibo's ice-capped dome ahead, and the Amboseli plains shrinking into distance.