The morning air outside the meeting office tastes of warm river mist and diesel; within minutes the van slips off the highland road and the forest closes in, green and noisy. Canoes bob like small promises on the Puyo River, and a guide fits you with rubber boots and a plastic poncho before the trail swallows the sound of the engine. The day moves by in layers: a curated animal refuge where toucans and monkeys inspect visitors with curious eyes, a 20-minute canoe shuttle that pushes you deeper into the basin, and a guided forest walk that ends at a waterfall you can actually step into.