The morning opens cool and briny at the Royal Naval Dockyard: a blue building at the wharf, guides checking kayaks while a small sightseeing launch nudges away from the dock. Within thirty minutes the harbor loosens its grip and the shoreline unfurls—jagged limestone bluffs, narrow inlets and the bright, shallow channels of Paradise Lakes. You step from the launch into a sit-on-top kayak, hear a quick safety brief, and then the water begins to move you. The paddle cadence sets the pace; the guide points out a patch of seagrass where a green sea turtle bobs like a breathing rock, a rainbow of parrotfish flashing beneath a reef lip.