You step out of the vehicle at Momela Gate and the air changes—cooler, thinner, threaded with the distant scent of eucalyptus. Pelicans drift across Momela’s shallow lakes below while a lone giraffe browses the park’s acacia edge, unconcerned by your pack. This is not a safari that happens after a climb; it is a climb that begins inside a living park. For four days you move through forest, moorland and alpine scree, sharing the trail with zebras and colobus monkeys, and finishing above the clouds on Socialist Peak where Kilimanjaro flames at the horizon.