challenging
3–5 days
Participants should have strong cardiovascular fitness and upper-body strength to handle sustained ice climbing and cold weather exposure.
Step into the frozen world of New Hampshire’s White Mountains with the Learn to Lead Ice Course. Develop advanced ice climbing skills and the leadership confidence to tackle winter ascents safely in this iconic alpine setting.
1 or 2 Days • Join Us!
Elevate your climbing skills with this advanced course designed for experienced climbers ready to tackle the challenges of leading. Over three customizable days, you'll master advanced techniques in anchor systems, gear management, and ice self-rescue, all while building the confidence needed to lead climb on waterfall ice.
Leading is very rewarding but can also be dangerous and scary if you are not prepared technically, physically and mentally. This course is progressive, while we recommend 3 days, each participant may have different goals and different abilities, so the course can be as few or as many days as you require.
Day one covers advanced anchor & belay systems, racking of gear, rope management, and routefinding while on a multi-pitch climb. You will end the day with a lead while top-roped and set up your own descent. Day two will be another day of leading on top-rope with the possibility of leading your own climb. More discussion on efficient gear racking strategies and rope management with a double rope system. Day three will be another day of leading on top rope, setting your own descent and formal instruction on ice self-rescue systems. Climbers will come away from this course with a better understanding of the risks involved and the technical skills required to lead-climb waterfall ice.
Each course is different. Tell us what skills and experiences you need. We will design the course to make it worthwhile for you. Confidence is key when you lead climb, especially on ice. Confidence only comes from experience and knowledge.
Wear multiple breathable layers to manage sweat and retain warmth during climbing sessions.
Essential for safe movement on vertical ice; ensure they fit and are properly maintained.
Winter conditions change rapidly in the White Mountains; stay updated to plan safe climbing days.
Leading requires smooth rope handling; develop these skills beforehand to maximize learning.
The White Mountains have been a center for mountaineering since the early 1900s, with a rich history of winter climbing pioneered by New England climbers.
Climbers are encouraged to follow Leave No Trace principles to protect fragile winter ecosystems and minimize erosion on ice routes.
Provide essential traction on ice surfaces for safe climbing.
winter specific
Required for ascending vertical ice formations securely.
winter specific
Keep hands warm and dexterous during prolonged exposure to cold.
winter specific
Protects against falling ice and rock debris during climbs.