A line of breath fogs the air as the guide leads the small group away from the Banff Train Station and onto the quiet sweep of the Bow Valley Parkway. Snow muffles the road; wind-sculpted drifts cling to lodgepole pines. Within 20 minutes the canyon appears — a black throat cut into pale limestone, catwalks clinging to the rock like stitches. Below, water that once rushed silver has become vertical glaciers of ice, catching light in tones of hard blue and dull milk. Ice climbers knot themselves to the frozen columns, moving with patient, deliberate pulls that map the scale of the cliffs.