A cold winded breath of the Prealps meets your face as you step into the camp on Isarstraße in Lenggries. Guides are already checking helmets and tightening life jackets while the river murmurs not far away, daring you to find out how wild it still is. The rubber of the raft is slick with river spray; a chorus of paddles and shouted commands folds into the landscape. In three hours you will have threaded a 12 km ribbon of limestone and meadow between Lenggries and Bad Tölz, trading the steady hum of the road for sections of calm glide and whitewater that kicks up at level 3.