The morning air in the Andorra Valley bites with a dry chill as you step from the minivan and into a landscape that refuses to stand still. Reeds in the peat bog ripple like a low sea, and a river threads the valley, daring you forward. Your guide fits your crampons, clicks a helmet into place, and the group moves out: first across wet ground that sighs underfoot, then up into the thick, dark Andean Patagonian forest where trunks lean like old oars. The climb eases and steepens in turns—mud, snow, or hard-packed trail depending on the day's weather—until the blue-white edge of Vinciguerra Glacier emerges above the ridge, fractured with crevices and the occasional gash of turquoise ice.