Morning light slashes across the Red Sea as the boat slips away from Hurghada marina, the city’s low skyline shrinking behind you. Salt and diesel mix with the wet citrus of sunscreen; within an hour the horizon opens into turquoise lanes and the boat’s engine drops to a contented hum. You’ll stop twice for snorkeling in coral gardens where schools of parrotfish and angelfish dart through fingers of branching coral, then pull up near a quieter patch for a chance at light fishing before the main event — almost three hours on the soft, white sand of Giftun Island’s protected beach.