A warm, saline breeze carries the smell of mangroves as the group slips onto the sand for a ten-minute orientation under a dome of stars. Guides point out constellations, then lead the kayaks from the shoreline into the shallow flats toward the sandbanks of Punta Mosquitos. The water grows quieter; without city lights the ocean begins to answer with phosphorescent pinpricks that flare with each paddle stroke. In the right dark patch the guide stops the flotilla for a 45-minute encounter—small, electric-blue trails wake when hands and oars cut the surface, and swimming is optional for anyone who wants to float inside that glow.