The morning wind off the Atlantic cuts a clean line across the peninsula as your guide closes the van door at Maiden's Cove. Sea-salt and roasted coffee hang in the air; behind you, the white teeth of Clifton’s beaches slip away, ahead the route falls toward the raw, stony shoreline of the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. Over the next eight hours you move between two oceans’ moods — rocky headlands that dare you to look down, quiet bays where sand invites you to pause, and the old lighthouse at Cape Point circling the horizon like a patient, iron-eyed guardian.