You leave Granada just after breakfast and the city’s colonial roofs shrink behind you as the road angles up toward Mombacho. The air cools; cloud fingers brush the bus windows. By the time you step onto the Puma Trail, the forest has a presence—epiphytes hanging like chandeliers, leaves dripping with the recent mist, birds calling from layers above. The 4.5-kilometre Puma Trail (about 2.8 miles) unfolds as a mix of steep switchbacks and old lava steps, with roughly 400 m (1,300 ft) of elevation change that pushes your breathing and rewards you with a crater-rim view of Lake Nicaragua, Ometepe’s twin cones, and the patchwork of Granada below.