A single vehicle breaks the silence of a winter road and you slide northward, past birch trunks frosted with rime and frozen lakes that glitter like dull coins. After a 90-minute drive from Rovaniemi the landscape changes: the pines grow older, the wind gathers into low ridges, and the guide points toward a distant hump of rock where a tiny railway — the Pendolino snow-train — waits to ferry you up a lamp-black slope. By midday you are on snowshoes, weight distributed over deep powder, moving through a forest of cotton-burdened branches toward the Lampivaara amethyst mine atop a fell in Pyhä-Luosto National Park.