A low-slung motorboat slips out of Sarigerme harbor, reed fingers brushing the hull as the Dalyan River narrows and the gull-cracked cliffs of Kaunos come into view. You can feel the river pulling you upriver — a slow current that reveals layered geology, fishing huts and, eventually, a cluster of visitors rubbing black mud into sun-warmed skin. The day moves with the tide: a detoxing mud bath and hot pools, a fresh-water dip in Köyceğiz Lake, a river cruise past carved rock tombs, and a late-afternoon swim at Iztuzu’s long sandy shore where Caretta caretta still nest.