The van threads its way out of Arequipa at dawn, volcano silhouettes sharpening as the air thins. Within hours the landscape has changed from white-stone colonial streets to wind-sculpted altiplano: salt-and-tufa flats, herds of grazing camelids, and terraces cutting the hillsides. On day one the route climbs past Mirador de los Andes (4,910 m), where the cold bites and the horizon opens to Ampato, Sabancaya and Hualca Hualca; on day two the group waits at Cruz del Cóndor as Andean condors wheel on thermal columns above a canyon that plunges more than 3,000 m.