You leave El Chaltén before dawn, the town's sodium lights paling as the scrub and lenga forest take shape. By midmorning the trail opens, and the mountain announces itself: granite faces of Fitz Roy and the ragged skyline that give this corner of Patagonia an edge. On the first day you push uphill—rock underfoot, wind testing the campsite—until a narrow ridge rewards you with a view straight at Mount Fitz Roy. The second day unwinds into broad valleys and mirror-calm lagoons—Madre, Hija, and finally Laguna Torre—where icebergs drift like slow, white ships and the skyline keeps watch.