A low-slung motorboat slips away from Sorrento’s harbor and the sea opens, bright and urgent. Salt lifts off the bows, the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast slide sternward, and Capri’s profile — the Faraglioni stacks and a scatter of white houses — grows larger until the skipper points the bow at the island’s caverns. The day alternates between motion and stillness: short swims in water clear enough to read the seabed, close-up passes of sculpted grotto walls, and a slow roll into Marina Grande where the boat docks and the island’s soundscape of tourists, church bells and scooters takes over.