You step out of your hotel just before the minivan arrives, the air sharp at 1,100 meters and the first slopes of tuff catching morning light like a dry river of sand. For the next six and a half hours you ride through a landscape that keeps changing its accents: a castle-shaped rock perched on a ridge, rows of mushroom-headed chimneys, a valley carved into curving gullies like the wrinkles of an old hand. The Red Tour covers those highlights efficiently—Uçhisar Castle, Love Valley, Paşabağı (Monks Valley), Devrent (Imagination Valley) and the pottery town of Avanos—so you spend the day moving from geological classroom to living craft workshop.