The minivan eases off the motorway and the coast opens up — a hard blue that meets sandstone cliffs in a hard, noisy way. The guide points to a low headland and the van pulls in; somewhere below, African penguins shuffle between granite boulders and tidal pools as breakers push and spatter. Over the next eight to nine hours, the Cape Peninsula arranges itself into a sequence of scenes: a riot of Bo-Kaap colors on Signal Hill, the gentle arc of Muizenberg’s Victorian changing huts, the sudden drop and hairpin turns of Chapman's Peak Drive, and the raw Atlantic roar at the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point.