A low, wind-driven cloud lifts off the black peat and reveals a slice of turquoise—the Emerald Lagoon—like a secret kept by the mountains. You stand on the edge of the Tierra Mayor Valley, boots sinking slightly into sphagnum moss, while the Andes rise sharp and raw to the north, their flanks streaked with snow and rust-red scree. The trail ahead climbs from damp forest into a landscape that seems to have been chiseled by ice: ribs of rock, scattered moraine, and finally the pale, vertical face of Albino’s Eye, a 20-meter ice wall that drinks the winter light.