You leave Moshi before sunrise and the van threads sugarcane fields until the road narrows and the landscape hardens into the dark green throat of Kilimanjaro's rainforest. The first steps at Londorossi Gate (≈2,200 m) feel forgiving — birds call, leaves slap the trail, and porters hum as they shoulder a greater load than you. Over eight days the mountain will change personalities: a humid green below, wind-swept moorland on Shira Plateau, a blonde, dusty alpine desert on Barafu, and a summit that makes even the work of breathing feel important.