You wake before dawn in a small clearing where rain forest gives way to high moorland, the breath of the mountain already cool and sharp. Porters stoke a stove, guides check rope lines and maps, and the trail out of Lemosho Glades narrows into a root-stepped highway that has carried more than a few determined climbers toward Uhuru Peak. On the first day you climb out of montane forest — leaves slick with mist, colobus monkeys sounding like distant heralds — and by day three the Shira Plateau opens like an unexpected plain at 3,900m, wind shaping the grass and clouds flirting with the horizon.