You leave Nairobi before dawn, the road climbing through coffee farms and patchworked fields until the vehicle stops at the edge of a bamboo forest. The trail forces you into a green hush; bamboo stalks promise cool shade and the occasional sunlit clearing that frames the first views of Mount Kenya’s serrated skyline. By day two the landscape opens to Lake Ellis and moorland—giant lobelias and silver-green grounds that look older than people—and the mountain’s glaciers and ridgelines appear closer, their weather changing by the hour.