Walking the Wake of Fire: A Day at Mt. St. Helens
A 12‑hour guided sweep through lava tubes, old‑growth forest and the crater rim—good for curious hikers and geology nerds alike.
By midmorning the bus drops you at the rim and the wind speaks like history—sharp, cold, impatient. You step out and the mountain commands the scene: a freshly hewn bowl where a summit once stood, a raw crater rim that still smells faintly of sulfur on certain days. Below, Spirit Lake sits like a green glass shard, punctuated by the ghostly stumps of trees tossed and snapped by the 1980 eruption. The guide sets down the picnic cooler, unfolds a map, and within a minute you understand why people still stop here, decades after the blast.
Trail Wisdom
Layer for Wind and Sun
Temperatures can swing drastically between lowland trailheads and crater viewpoints—pack a light insulating layer and a windproof shell.
Sturdy Footwear
Expect loose pumice, wet roots, and slick boardwalks; trail runners with good tread or lightweight hiking boots work best.
Bring a Refillable Bottle
On a long 12‑hour tour you’ll want 1–2 liters of water—refill stations are limited once you leave Portland.
Pack a Headlamp for Lava Tubes
The guided lava tube visit is best experienced with hands‑free light—some tours supply lamps but check ahead.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Lava tree mold stands off the main viewpoint road (smaller crowds)
- •A short side trail to lesser‑visited waterfalls near the forested section
Wildlife
Elk, Peregrine Falcon
Conservation Note
The area is managed for recovery and research—stay on trails, pack out waste, and avoid taking volcanic specimens to preserve the site for science and recovery.
The 1980 eruption removed much of the summit and reshaped the landscape—this event is central to modern volcanology and local emergency planning.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Wildflower emergence, Accessible lower‑elevation waterfalls
Challenges: Variable road openings, Mud and late snow patches
Spring brings quick green‑up and cascades at their peak; expect cool mornings and the chance that higher viewpoints are snow‑affected.
summer
Best for: Stable crater access, Long daylight for photography
Challenges: Crowds on clear weekends, Dry, dusty trails
Summer offers the most reliable access to Johnston Ridge and crater viewpoints—pack sun protection and start early to avoid afternoon winds.
fall
Best for: Crisp, clear air for long views, Fewer tour crowds
Challenges: Shortening days, Potential early snow at high points
Autumn’s light is excellent for photography and views; temperatures cool quickly so layers are important.
winter
Best for: Snow‑scaped vistas, Quiet, reflective atmosphere
Challenges: Road closures and limited viewpoint access, Cold and icy conditions
Winter turns the mountain stark and quiet—only visit with a tour that plans for winter access and provides appropriate gear.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Sturdy Trail ShoesEssential
Grippy shoes handle loose pumice, roots and wet boardwalks encountered on multiple short hikes.
Layered Clothing + Wind ShellEssential
Temperatures and wind vary by elevation—layers let you adapt, especially at exposed crater viewpoints.
Headlamp or Flashlight
Useful for exploring lava tubes; check if the tour supplies lights before you go.
Refillable Water Bottle (1–2L) & SnacksEssential
Sustains you through a long day of hiking and limited facilities between stops.
Common Questions
How long is the tour and what is included?
This is a 12‑hour guided day tour from Portland; transportation and guided hikes are included, plus a picnic lunch at a viewpoint—confirm specifics with the operator.
Is the hike suitable for kids or older travelers?
Many stops are family‑friendly and include short, easy walks, but the full day is long—assess stamina and mobility, and inquire about customizable pacing.
Do I need special permits to visit Johnston Ridge or Spirit Lake?
No special permits are typically required for day visits; follow U.S. Forest Service rules and any guidance from your tour operator.
Will I be able to see into the crater?
Weather and road access determine how close you can get; on clear days the tour aims to reach the best viewpoint for crater and Spirit Lake views.
Are lava tubes safe to enter?
Guided lava tube sections are generally safe when accompanied by a knowledgeable guide—headlamps and caution on uneven surfaces are recommended.
Can I bring my own food or buy food on the route?
The tour provides a picnic lunch; there may be an optional dinner/beer stop at your expense on the return trip—ask the operator for details.
What to Pack
Sturdy trail shoes, Windproof layer, Refillable water (1–2L), Headlamp for lava tubes—these cover footing, weather changes, hydration and low‑light cave sections
Did You Know
On May 18, 1980, Mt. St. Helens produced the most deadly and economically destructive volcanic event in U.S. history, removing the mountain’s summit and killing 57 people—an event that transformed volcanology and emergency response practices.
Quick Travel Tips
Reserve the tour in advance for popular summer dates; start early to avoid afternoon winds; expect limited cell service near Johnston Ridge; check road and viewpoint access status before departure
Local Flavor
After the mountain, head back to Portland for craft beer and hearty Pacific Northwest fare—Cascade Brewing’s barrelhouse and Portland brewpubs are good spots to debrief; if you prefer small‑town flavor, stop in Toutle or Castle Rock for diner sandwiches and local bakery treats.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest airport: Portland International Airport (PDX) / Typical drive from Portland to tour start: ~2–2.5 hours one‑way / Cell service: patchy near Johnston Ridge and some trail sections / Permits: none typically required—follow U.S. Forest Service rules
Sustainability Note
This landscape is a recovering ecosystem and research area—stay on marked trails, pack out all waste, do not remove rocks or biological material, and follow guide instructions to minimize impact.