Walking the Accursed: A Hut-to-Hut Journey on the Peaks of the Balkans
A three-country hut-to-hut trek where alpine drama meets warm village hospitality.
Dawn gathers slowly in the Accursed Mountains, the ridgelines reading the light like a map while the valleys hold on to blue shadow a few beats longer. A bell clinks from a distant flock and the wind shoulders the limestone towers, urging the day forward. On the trail above Theth, the path frames a clean line across alpine meadows, then slips into spruce and beech where the forest breathes cool air and damp leaf-litter earth. Somewhere higher, water hurries over pale rock, daring you to chase it to the pass. This is the Peaks of the Balkans—192 kilometers of hut-to-hut walking across Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro—a multi-day circuit that threads three countries and many more stories into a single ribbon of trail.
Trail Wisdom
Secure Border Permits Early
Cross-border permits are required on several stages; arrange them in advance through your operator to avoid delays at high passes.
Start Before the Storms
Afternoon thunderheads are common in summer—leave early to be off the high ridges by midafternoon.
Cash Is King in the Huts
Many lodges are offline; carry enough euros for meals and lodging, plus a small emergency reserve.
Feet and Ankles Matter
Rocky descents and mule paths favor sturdy boots and trekking poles; tape hot spots early to prevent blisters.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Talijanka ridge above Grebaje Valley for a short, high-reward panorama
- •The Blue Eye spring near Vusanje for striking karst turquoise
Wildlife
Chamois, Golden eagle
Conservation Note
The route crosses Valbona Valley National Park (Albania), Prokletije National Park (Montenegro), and Bjeshkët e Nemuna National Park (Kosovo). Stay on marked trails and pack out all waste to protect fragile alpine ecosystems.
Traditional stone tower houses, or kullas, reflect a legacy of family defense and hospitality in northern Albanian highlands.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Wildflowers at lower elevations, Cool temperatures
Challenges: Lingering snow on passes, Unstable weather
Early-season hiking can be rewarding below 2,000 m, but high routes may remain snowbound and require local guidance.
summer
Best for: Full route access, Long daylight, Alpine meadows in bloom
Challenges: Afternoon storms, Heat in valleys, Busier huts
Peak season for the circuit; start early, hydrate often, and book huts in advance.
fall
Best for: Clear views, Cool, stable weather
Challenges: Shorter days, Occasional early snow
September and early October are ideal for crisp air and quieter trails; pack warmer layers for evenings.
winter
Best for: Ski touring with experts, Snowy landscapes
Challenges: Avalanche risk, Closed huts, Severe cold
Not recommended for the standard trek; winter travel here is for experienced parties with local knowledge.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Waterproof Hiking BootsEssential
Stiff soles and ankle support help on rocky passes and loose descents.
Trekking PolesEssential
Reduce knee strain on long downhills and add stability on uneven terrain.
Lightweight Insulating LayerEssential
A packable down or synthetic jacket keeps you warm during chilly mornings and high, windy passes.
Water Filter or Purification TabsEssential
Reliable water sources exist, but treatment is smart for springs and streams.
Common Questions
How long is the Peaks of the Balkans trek and how many days should I plan?
The full circuit is roughly 192 km. Most hikers complete it in 8–10 days depending on fitness, route variants, and weather.
Do I need special permits to cross borders on the trail?
Yes. Cross-border permits are required for certain passes between Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. A licensed operator can arrange them in advance.
What kind of accommodation is available?
Expect family-run lodges, mountain huts, and traditional stone houses (kullas). They typically include dinner and breakfast, with packed lunches on request.
Is the trail well-marked and do I need a guide?
Waymarking is generally good, but fog and intersecting shepherd paths can be confusing. Many trekkers go guided for permits and logistics; skilled navigators can go self-guided with offline maps.
When is the best time to hike it?
Late June through September is best for clear trails and open huts. September often brings the most stable weather and fewer crowds.
Can I pay with credit cards in the mountains?
Rarely. Carry enough cash (euros) for nightly stays, meals, and incidentals; ATMs are only in larger towns before you head into the high country.
What to Pack
Sturdy waterproof boots for rocky, wet terrain; Passport and border permits for cross-border stages; Water filter to safely drink from high-country springs; Euros in cash since many huts don’t accept cards.
Did You Know
Maja e Jezercë (2,694 m) is the highest peak entirely within Albania and the second-highest summit in the Dinaric Alps, overlooking much of the Peaks of the Balkans region.
Quick Travel Tips
Book huts weeks ahead in July–August; carry offline maps as cell signal drops above villages; arrange border permits through a licensed operator; start hiking at sunrise to avoid afternoon storms and heat.
Local Flavor
In Shkodër, celebrate a big hiking day with slow-cooked tave kosi and fresh salads; in Theth or Valbona, try mountain honey, local cheese, and warm bread straight from a village oven. In Montenegro, seek out hearty kacamak after a ridge day, and in Kosovo, pair grilled meats with crisp salads and mountain tea. A post-trek beer—Korça or Peja—tastes better with dusty boots.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest airports: Tirana (TIA), Podgorica (TGD), or Pristina (PRN). Common trailheads: Theth or Valbona (Albania), Plav/Gusinje (Montenegro), or Peja/Rugova (Kosovo). Driving from Shkodër to Theth takes ~3 hours on a paved mountain road. Expect patchy cell service in valleys and little to none on passes. Cross-border permits are required; a licensed operator typically arranges them. Carry cash for huts.
Sustainability Note
These peaks span three national parks with sensitive alpine flora and karst springs—stay on signed paths, avoid shortcuts that erode soil, refill at designated taps, and support locally owned huts to keep tourism benefits in the valleys.