Stone Witch of Klek: A Day Hike From Zagreb Into Croatia’s Karst Spine
Forests, folklore, and a limestone summit with a short, satisfying scramble.
A blue morning breaks over Ogulin as the beech forest draws you in with a hush. The trail wastes no time—soft duff underfoot, limestone ribs poking through like an old spine—and ahead, Klek’s sheer crown tilts against the sky as if to appraise your resolve. Karst has personality here. It swallows rivers, grows caves like secrets, and molds cliffs into silhouettes that storytellers can’t stop naming. Locals call Klek the mountain of witches, and once the wind braids itself through the spruce, you understand why. It tugs at your pack straps and dares you higher.
Trail Wisdom
Respect the Final Scramble
The last 10–15 minutes to the summit include short cable-assisted sections over polished limestone. Keep hands free and move one point at a time.
Start Early for Shade and Space
Mornings offer cooler temps, calmer winds, and fewer hikers on the narrow upper trail.
Bring Enough Water
Karst terrain hides water; reliable sources are scarce. Carry 1–2 liters per person, more in summer.
Mind Wet Limestone
After rain, limestone turns slick. Grippy footwear and cautious foot placement make a big difference.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Đula’s Abyss (Đulin ponor) in Ogulin, where the Dobra River disappears underground
- •Sabljaci Lake for a post-hike swim or sunset stroll
Wildlife
Roe deer, Common buzzard
Conservation Note
Stay on marked trails to protect fragile karst vegetation and prevent soil erosion. Pack out all trash; water seeps quickly through limestone into sensitive aquifers.
Klek is often cited as a cradle of Croatian mountaineering, drawing some of the country’s first organized ascents in the late 19th century. Folklore paints the summit as a meeting place for witches during storms.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Wildflowers, Cooler temps
Challenges: Lingering snow patches, Muddy sections
Fresh, green, and brisk. Expect mixed conditions and carry layers; the forest comes alive with birdsong and blooms.
summer
Best for: Long daylight, Lush forest shade
Challenges: Heat and humidity, Afternoon storms
Start early to avoid heat and crowds. Thunderstorms can form quickly—check forecasts and bring a shell.
fall
Best for: Colorful foliage, Crisp, stable weather
Challenges: Shorter daylight, Cool winds on the ridge
Arguably the best time to hike Klek: vivid colors and clear views. Pack a warm layer for the summit.
winter
Best for: Quiet trails, Snow-dusted vistas
Challenges: Ice on slabs, Cold winds
Bring microspikes and warm layers. Only attempt in stable conditions and with experience on winter terrain.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Lightweight Hiking Boots or Trail ShoesEssential
Grippy soles handle wet limestone and forest duff with confidence.
1–2 L Water + ElectrolytesEssential
Karst terrain has scarce water; staying hydrated prevents fatigue on the ascent.
Packable Rain/Wind ShellEssential
Weather changes fast on Velika Kapela—carry a compact layer even on clear days.
Trekking Poles
Useful on the descent and for balance on slick or rocky sections.
Common Questions
How difficult is the Klek hike?
It’s a moderate hike with about 500–650 m of elevation gain and a short cable-assisted section near the summit. Most fit hikers comfortable with uneven terrain can manage it.
Do I need a guide?
Not strictly, as the trail is marked, but a guide streamlines logistics from Zagreb, monitors weather, and adds local context on geology, history, and folklore.
How long does the hike take?
Plan 3–4 hours on the trail, plus breaks. The guided tour typically lasts around 6 hours including transport from Zagreb.
Are permits or fees required?
No permits are required for the standard route to Klek.
Is the trail suitable for kids or dogs?
Active children with hiking experience can complete the trail, but the final exposed section requires close supervision. Dogs should be leashed; consider skipping the summit scramble with pets.
Can I reach the trailhead by public transport?
Trains and buses run to Ogulin from Zagreb, but you’ll need a taxi or arranged transfer to the trailhead. A guided tour is the easiest option without a car.
What to Pack
2L of water (karst lacks reliable sources); grippy hiking shoes (limestone can be slick); light shell (summit winds and fast-changing weather); small first-aid kit with blister care (uneven terrain).
Did You Know
Ogulin is the hometown of celebrated Croatian writer Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić; local folklore around Klek’s ‘witches’ inspired elements of the town’s storytelling culture, now showcased at Ivana’s House of Fairy Tales.
Quick Travel Tips
Drive the A1 from Zagreb and exit for Ogulin for the fastest approach; bring cash for hut snacks as cards aren’t always accepted; check the forecast—afternoon summer storms build quickly; download offline maps—cell service can be spotty near the summit.
Local Flavor
After the hike, head into Ogulin for a lakeside pause at Sabljaci or a hearty meal at Hotel Frankopan’s restaurant. Try local trout, venison goulash, and a Karlovačko beer brewed in nearby Karlovac. For a cultural leg, stop by Ivana’s House of Fairy Tales to connect the mountain’s myths with the town’s literary heritage.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest airport: Zagreb (ZAG). Trailhead: near Bjelsko above Ogulin. Drive: ~1.5–2 hours from Zagreb, ~15 minutes from Ogulin. Cell service: patchy on upper trail. Permits: none required. Parking: limited at trailhead—arrive early.
Sustainability Note
Klek’s karst feeds underground aquifers—avoid soaps in streams, stay on marked trails to protect thin soils, and pack out everything. Give wildlife space and keep noise low in the forest.