Ride the Shepherds’ Plateau: Velika Planina by Mountain Bike
Rolling alpine pastures, shepherd huts, and gravel bliss above Ljubljana
The bells announce you before the wind does. They clink from somewhere ahead—soft, irregular, a herd moving like a lazy river across a green sea. The gravel track tilts upward, crunching under tires, and the plateau opens in a wide breath. Huts with steep shingled roofs gather like a small wooden parliament, watching the Kamnik–Savinja Alps shoulder the sky. Down below, the Ljubljana Basin lays out in pale blues and silvers, a city at arm’s length yet entirely elsewhere. Up here, air moves differently. It nudges your jersey, tests your resolve, and dares you to keep pedaling.
Trail Wisdom
Respect the pasture
Give livestock plenty of space, pass slowly, and always close grazing gates behind you to protect herds and the landscape.
Prepare for fast weather
Mountain conditions shift quickly—pack a light shell and an insulating layer even on sunny days.
Ride smart on limestone
Gravel and embedded limestone can be marbly; run moderate tire pressures and check brake pads before long, gradual descents.
Know your line choices
Tracks crisscross the plateau; go with a guide or carry an offline map/GPX to ensure you hit the best viewpoints and avoid sensitive areas.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Preskar’s Hut Museum for a look at traditional herdsmen life
- •Gradišče ridge for big-sky views over the Ljubljana Basin
Wildlife
Chamois on nearby slopes, Alpine chough riding thermals
Conservation Note
This is a protected cultural landscape; stay on established tracks, close gates, and pack out all waste to keep pastures healthy and traditions intact.
Velika Planina’s herdsmen settlement was largely burned during World War II and later rebuilt; the plateau’s summer transhumance and trnič cheese-making traditions continue today.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Wildflowers, Cool temperatures
Challenges: Lingering snow patches, Muddy sections near sinkholes
Late spring (May–June) brings blooming meadows and quiet trails, but expect wet ground and occasional snow where the sun runs late.
summer
Best for: Long daylight, Open huts and cheese-making
Challenges: Afternoon storms, More visitors
July–August is prime riding with warm temps and full hut services; start early to beat heat and crowds and keep an eye on fast-forming thunderheads.
fall
Best for: Clear views, Fewer crowds
Challenges: Chilly mornings, Shorter daylight
September–October delivers crisp air and stable conditions; bring layers and lights if you like lingering at viewpoints.
winter
Best for: Snow landscapes (on foot or skis)
Challenges: Icy surfaces, Limited bike access
The plateau shifts to a ski destination; mountain biking is not recommended except with guided fat-bike outings when permitted.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Hardtail or short-travel full-suspension MTB (or e-MTB)Essential
A trail-capable bike with 2.2–2.4 inch tires handles limestone gravel and pasture tracks efficiently.
Lightweight waterproof shellEssential
Mountain weather turns quickly; a compact shell buys comfort during pop-up showers and wind on exposed ridgelines.
Hydration system (1.5–2 L)Essential
Water sources are mainly at huts; carry enough for long stretches between refills on sunny days.
Repair kit (tube or plugs, pump/CO2, multi-tool, chain link)Essential
Self-sufficiency matters on the plateau’s web of tracks where help may be a few kilometers away.
Common Questions
Is this ride suitable for beginners?
Yes. Routes are highly customizable on mostly gravel and dirt; guides tailor distance and pace to the group.
How far will we ride and how much climbing is involved?
Most guided outings cover 20–30 km with about 400–600 meters of elevation gain spread over rolling terrain.
Can I take a bike on the Velika Planina cable car?
Bikes are typically allowed with a small supplement; check current schedules and policies, especially outside summer.
Are mountain huts cash-only?
Many accept cash only or have spotty card service—carry euros for food, drinks, and souvenirs like trnič cheese.
Are e-bikes permitted on the plateau?
Yes, e-MTBs are common; stick to designated tracks, yield to walkers and livestock, and ride courteously through the settlement.
What’s the surface like?
Primarily gravel and firm dirt with occasional rocky patches and cattle grids; expect steady climbs and wide, manageable descents.
What to Pack
Light rain shell for pop-up storms; 2L of water since refills are only at huts; Euros in cash for food and lift tickets; Sunscreen and lip balm because high-elevation sun and wind are unforgiving.
Did You Know
Velika Planina is home to one of Europe’s largest high-elevation shepherd settlements, and its traditional trnič cheese—often crafted in decorative paired forms—has been a local symbol of affection for centuries.
Quick Travel Tips
Check cable car hours in advance—they vary by season; Start early to avoid summer storms and midday heat; Download offline maps—junctions can be confusing; Combine the ride with a quick stroll in Kamnik’s Old Town for coffee and supplies.
Local Flavor
Refuel mountain-side at Zeleni Rob with jota and a slab of apple strudel; ask for trnič if it’s on offer. Back in Kamnik, celebrate at Gostilna Repnik for classic Slovenian fare, then sample local pivo at Mali Grad Brewery’s taproom. Stroll the Old Town’s Mali Grad chapel and riverfront to round out the day.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest airport: Ljubljana Jože Pučnik (LJU). Trailhead: Kamniška Bistrica cable car station (~45 minutes from Ljubljana, ~20 minutes from Kamnik). Cell service: Patchy on the plateau. Permits: None required for riding marked tracks; purchase lift tickets if using the cable car/chairlift.
Sustainability Note
Velika Planina’s pastures are a living cultural landscape—ride only on established tracks, give livestock wide berth, close gates, and avoid wet meadows to prevent rutting. Pack out all trash and bring a reusable bottle to limit single-use plastics.
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