Into the Blue: Chasing La Leona Through a Volcanic Canyon
Wade, scramble, and swim your way to Guanacaste’s most charismatic canyon waterfall
The river gets louder before you see it, a steady roar threading through the dry forest above Curubandé. Sunlight needles the canopy, and the path dips toward a basalt cleft where Río Blanco shivers into a canyon. Step off the bank and the water greets your shins, then your knees, cool and insistent. It pushes forward, daring you to follow. Ahead, the stone walls narrow and the canyon inhales the heat, trading it for shade and echo. The jungle hangs over the rim like a curious audience. You’re on the way to La Leona, the most charismatic waterfall in the Rincon de la Vieja volcanic foothills—one that makes you earn the view with wades, scrambles, and a few lungfuls of thrill.
Trail Wisdom
Wear real water shoes
Closed-toe water shoes or grippy sandals with toe protection help on slick basalt and in shallow scrambles.
Pack a small dry bag
Protect your phone, camera, and a lightweight layer—there are multiple wades and splash zones near the falls.
Start early for calmer flows
Morning hikes offer cooler temps and more predictable river levels, especially in the rainy season.
Follow the guide’s line
Currents shift with rain; local guides know safe crossings and the best footing through the canyon.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Chorreras Waterfalls near Hacienda Guachipelín for a quieter swim spot
- •Río Negro Hot Springs for a post-hike volcanic mud and soak experience
Wildlife
Howler monkeys, Blue-crowned motmots
Conservation Note
Use reef-safe, biodegradable sunscreen and pack out all trash to keep the river pristine. Stay on established paths to protect riparian vegetation and microhabitats.
Rincón de la Vieja’s name stems from a Chorotega legend of an old woman who communed with the volcano; today the area is part of the UNESCO-listed Área de Conservación Guanacaste.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Lower crowds, Wildlife activity
Challenges: Intermittent showers, Slick rocks
Late dry season in Guanacaste brings warm days with the first hint of rain. Water clarity is good, but brief showers can make footing slippery.
summer
Best for: Lush canyon scenery, Cooler water temps
Challenges: Higher, faster river, Afternoon storms
Rainy season swells Río Blanco and paints the forest neon. Go early with a guide and be prepared for stronger currents and muddy approaches.
fall
Best for: Full waterfalls, Dramatic cloudscapes
Challenges: Unpredictable flows, Potential closures after heavy rain
Late rainy season keeps La Leona thundering. Conditions can change fast; check forecasts and heed local advice.
winter
Best for: Clear water, Stable conditions
Challenges: Strong sun, Midday heat
Dry season brings the most reliable river levels and visibility. Start early, bring sun protection, and savor mellow currents.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Closed-toe water shoes or sturdy sandals with toe protectionEssential
Essential traction and toe protection on slick volcanic rock and shallow scrambles.
Lightweight dry bag (5–10L)Essential
Keeps phone, camera, and a spare layer dry during wades and spray near the falls.
Sun protection (hat, UPF shirt, reef-safe sunscreen)Essential
Dry-season sun is strong; protect skin without washing harsh chemicals into the river.
Compact trekking pole
Adds balance on slick rocks and in higher flows during the rainy season.
Common Questions
How long is the hike to La Leona Waterfall?
Plan for a 3–4 hour outing including swim time, with a round-trip distance of roughly 2.5–3 miles depending on seasonal water levels.
Do I need a guide?
A local guide is strongly recommended for safe river crossings, route-finding in the canyon, and real-time assessment of water conditions.
Can I swim at the waterfall?
Yes, in the dry season the pool is typically calm and clear for a short swim. In the rainy season, conditions vary—follow your guide’s direction.
What footwear is best?
Closed-toe water shoes or sturdy sandals with toe protection and good tread. Avoid flip-flops; the rocks are slick and there are boulder scrambles.
Is this hike suitable for kids?
Active kids who are comfortable with uneven terrain and getting wet may enjoy it in dry-season conditions. In higher flows, it may be too demanding.
How far is the trailhead from Liberia?
The Curubandé area trail access is about 30–45 minutes by car from downtown Liberia, depending on road and weather conditions.
What to Pack
Closed-toe water shoes for grip on slick basalt; Lightweight dry bag to protect phone and keys during river wades; Reef-safe sunscreen and hat to handle strong dry-season sun; Quick-dry towel or sarong for post-swim comfort at the falls.
Did You Know
Rincón de la Vieja is one of Costa Rica’s most active volcanoes and part of the Área de Conservación Guanacaste, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999.
Quick Travel Tips
Drive in early to beat both heat and afternoon storms; Bring small bills for parking or local snacks in Curubandé; Download offline maps—cell service drops in the canyon; In rainy season, check same-day river conditions with your guide before departing.
Local Flavor
Refuel in Curubandé at a local soda with a casado—rice, beans, plantains, salad, and your choice of protein. In Liberia, Café Liberia serves Costa Rican coffee and light plates in a restored colonial home. Cap the day with a cold craft beer from a Guanacaste brewer and swap waterfall stories as the evening wind, the Papagayo, cools the streets.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest airport: LIR (Daniel Oduber Quirós International, Liberia). Trail access: near Curubandé, ~30–45 minutes by car from Liberia. Cell service: intermittent to none in the canyon. Permits: Typically no park entry for this route, but access crosses private lands—go with a licensed local guide or tour operator.
Sustainability Note
This river corridor is a sensitive riparian habitat—use biodegradable sunscreen, avoid stepping on vegetation, and pack out all trash. Hire local guides to support conservation-minded access across private lands.