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Glow Lines on a Dark Sea: Night Paddling Larrabee State Park

Glow Lines on a Dark Sea: Night Paddling Larrabee State Park

A new-moon glide through the Salish Sea’s quiet light show

Bellingham, Washington
By Eric Crews
water activities, wildlife natureAugustsummer

Dusk thins to ink as the last ferry lights blink across the Salish Sea. You stand at Wildcat Cove in Larrabee State Park, the shoreline breathing with a quiet chop, the firs leaning in like sentries. A guide clips your spray skirt and checks your PFD, voice low, calm. Tandem kayaks nose the water like horses eager to work. The day releases its last color; the night takes the wheel. And then the bay answers. Your paddle dips and the sea writes back—tiny sparks skating off the blade, a clean line of blue-green fire that blooms and fades in a heartbeat.

Trail Wisdom

Dress for the drop

It gets colder after sunset on the water; wear non-cotton base layers and pack a warm insulating layer in the provided dry bag.

Hands on the blade, not the phone

Keep your headlamp off when safe and let your eyes adapt; avoid using phone flashlights, which kill night vision and wash out the glow.

Footwear that can get wet

You will wade to your knees during launch and landing; neoprene booties or sturdy water shoes make it easy.

Smart pairing in a tandem

Place the stronger paddler in the rear seat to steer and set cadence for a smooth, steady glide.

Local Knowledge

Hidden Gems

  • Teddy Bear Cove at low tide for tidepool textures and sunset colors
  • Pullouts along Chuckanut Drive for post-paddle stargazing above the Salish Sea

Wildlife

Harbor seals, Moon jellies

Conservation Note

Rinse sunscreen and insect repellent well before launch and avoid chemical-heavy products; bioluminescent waters and intertidal habitats are sensitive.

Larrabee is Washington’s first state park, established in 1915 and later renamed for the Larrabee family; Chuckanut sandstone cliffs frame its shore.

Seasonal Guide

spring

Best for: Cool, crisp air, Quieter coves

Challenges: Unpredictable weather, Cold water temps

Expect clear, chilly evenings; layer up and watch for wind. Bioluminescence can appear, but conditions vary night to night.

summer

Best for: Warm evenings, Peak new-moon paddles

Challenges: Higher demand, Occasional haze or light wind

The most popular season with pleasant air temps. Book around the new moon for the best chance of bright bioluminescence.

fall

Best for: Calm nights, Potential plankton blooms

Challenges: Shorter days, Rapid temperature drops

Often excellent for glow on clear, windless nights; bring extra layers as temperatures fall quickly after dusk.

winter

Best for: Solitude, Crisp visibility when clear

Challenges: Cold air and water, Frequent storms

Rarely scheduled, but if you go, plan for serious cold management and potential cancellations due to weather.

Photographer's Notes

Use fast primes (f/1.4–f/2), bump ISO to 3200–6400, and shoot short bursts to catch the glow trails as your paddle exits the water. Stabilize with a mini tripod or brace against the coaming when ashore. Switch your headlamp to red to preserve night vision and avoid blowing out shots. Pack a dry bag and microfiber cloth to keep lenses clear of spray.

What to Bring

Headlamp with red-light modeEssential

Red light preserves night vision and minimizes impact on wildlife and the bioluminescent effect.

Non-cotton base layersEssential

Synthetics or wool keep you warm if splashed and help manage cooling temps after sunset.

Neoprene booties or sturdy water shoesEssential

You’ll wade during launch and landing; grippy, warm footwear keeps you comfortable.

Light wind shell

A breathable shell blocks evening breezes without overheating during paddling.

Common Questions

Do I need kayaking experience to join?

No. The tour is beginner-friendly with on-land instruction, stable tandem sea kayaks, and a patient, guided pace.

Will I definitely see bioluminescence?

It’s common but not guaranteed. Tours are scheduled near the new moon for better viewing, but visibility depends on wind, tide, and plankton activity.

How cold will it feel at night?

Expect a noticeable temperature drop after sunset. Dress in non-cotton layers, bring a warm midlayer, and keep extra clothing in the provided dry bag.

What is the weight limit for the kayaks?

The recommended maximum weight is 250 pounds per person for the double kayaks.

Is there a minimum age?

Yes. Participants must be ages 10 and up, and minors must be accompanied by an adult.

Do I need a Discover Pass to park?

Parking at Washington State Parks typically requires a Discover Pass. Launch fees are included with the tour, but parking passes are your responsibility.

What to Pack

Headlamp with red-light mode (protects night vision), non-cotton warm layers (it cools quickly after sunset), neoprene booties or water shoes (you’ll wade at launch/landing), compact thermos with a warm drink (steady warmth between sets).

Did You Know

Larrabee State Park, established in 1915, is Washington’s first state park.

Quick Travel Tips

Book around the new moon for the best viewing; arrive 20 minutes early for gear fitting; check wind forecasts for Bellingham Bay before you go; bring a Discover Pass for parking at Washington State Parks.

Local Flavor

Post-paddle, warm up in Fairhaven: grab a pint and pub fare at Stones Throw Brewery, or soup and pie at Colophon Cafe. For a seafood-forward dinner, Head to Bellingham’s Boundary Bay Brewery & Bistro or Taylor Shellfish Farms on Chuckanut Drive when open. Stroll the South Bay Trail boardwalk to cap the evening with city lights over water.

Logistics Snapshot

Closest airport: Bellingham International (BLI); Seattle-Tacoma (SEA) ~2 hours south by car. Launch: Larrabee State Park boat launch (Wildcat Cove). Drive time: ~20 minutes from downtown Bellingham via Chuckanut Drive (WA-11). Cell service: Spotty along the shoreline. Permits: Discover Pass required for state park parking; launch fees covered by the operator.

Sustainability Note

This is a fragile nearshore ecosystem. Pack out everything, minimize light use, avoid touching tidal life, and choose reef-safe sunscreen hours before launch to reduce chemical runoff into bioluminescent waters.

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