From Rock-Hewn Sanctuaries to Molten Earth: A Six-Day Push Through Lalibela and the Danakil
A compact, otherworldly circuit through rock-hewn churches, Afar salt flats and a persistently glowing lava lake
You wake before dawn inside Lalibela’s old quarter because the town feels like a clock that runs on prayer and coffee. The stone is cool underfoot; lamplight catches on carved crosses and the silhouette of a church hewn from a single block of volcanic tuff. For a few hours the town exhales a thin veil of incense and roasting beans, then the engine starts—your 4x4 rolling east toward a place that seems to have been sketched by a different planet. Over six days and five nights, this trip hands you two very distinct Ethiopia: the intimate, millennia-old devotion carved into rock, and the incomprehensibly raw, incandescent edge of the Danakil Depression.
Trail Wisdom
Hydrate for the desert legs
Carry at least 3 liters of water for any field day in Danakil; dehydration sets in quickly in high heat and low shade.
Layer for temperature swings
Highland mornings in Lalibela can be chilly while Danakil days are very hot—pack a warm layer plus sun protection.
Respect local customs
Ask before photographing people, and participate in a coffee ceremony if offered—the gesture matters more than a souvenir snap.
Bring a headlamp for volcanic nights
Hands-free light is essential at Erta Ale camps and for moving around the bivouac after dark.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Sunrise at Bet Maryam in Lalibela for softer light and fewer crowds
- •Small salt-collection sites on the edge of the pans where local Afar still process salt by hand
Wildlife
Dorcas gazelle, Feral camels and migratory birds on seasonal pans
Conservation Note
The Danakil’s thermal features are fragile; avoid walking on crusted salt or microbial mats, and support local operators who minimize campsite impacts.
Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches were carved in the 12th–13th centuries under a dynasty that intended the town as a 'New Jerusalem' for Ethiopian Christianity.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Shoulder-season travel, Fewer crowds in Lalibela, Cooler nights than summer
Challenges: Possible early rains, Variable road conditions
Spring (March–May) can be transitional—Lalibela is pleasant, but the approach roads and lowlands may begin to see seasonal rains.
summer
Best for: Lalibela sightseeing when skies are clear, Lower hotel demand in town
Challenges: Extreme heat in Danakil, Occasional stampeding dust storms
Summer months bring high temperatures in the depression and occasionally impassable tracks; not the ideal time for Danakil activities.
fall
Best for: Peak dry-season conditions, Stable road access, Best chance for clear nights at Erta Ale
Challenges: Higher book-out rates for guides and vehicles
Autumn (Oct–Nov) is one of the best windows—dry, cooler nights and reliable access to the volcanic sites.
winter
Best for: Cooler, dry days in the highlands, Comfortable nights for camping
Challenges: Very cold highland mornings, Potentially icy slips at elevation
Northern Hemisphere winter (Dec–Feb) is the optimal time to combine Lalibela and Danakil—dry and tolerable temperatures in the desert.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Hydration pack or 3L water systemEssential
Keeps water accessible in the desert heat when every sip counts.
Sturdy hiking bootsEssential
Support and protection for scrambling over cooled lava, scree and salt flats.
High-SPF sun protection (hat, sunscreen, UV sunglasses)Essential
Reflection off salt and rock intensifies sun exposure in the Danakil.
Warm sleeping bag (rated to near-freezing)
Nights in the highlands or desert can be surprisingly cold—comfort and sleep depend on a good bag.
Common Questions
Do I need a permit to visit the Danakil Depression?
Yes—access to the Afar region typically requires government permits and a registered guide; reputable operators handle these logistics for you.
How physically demanding is the Erta Ale trek?
The hike to the Erta Ale rim involves steep, uneven ground and heat exposure; it's non-technical but demanding—expect 2–4 hours of strenuous walking depending on your pace.
Is there cellphone service during the tour?
Cell service is intermittent in Lalibela and largely absent in the Danakil Depression; plan for limited connectivity and bring necessary offline maps and confirmations.
What level of accommodation is provided?
The itinerary mixes hotel nights in Lalibela with basic tent or tarp camping near Danakil and Erta Ale; camps are functional and operated by local crews.
Is it safe to visit the Danakil?
Travel here is safe when done with experienced, licensed operators who arrange permits and local escorts; independent travel is not recommended due to remoteness and regional restrictions.
What vaccinations or health precautions should I take?
Check routine travel vaccines and consult a travel clinic for region-specific advice (e.g., hepatitis A), bring prescription medications, and carry oral rehydration salts for hot days.
What to Pack
Hydration system (3L), sun protection (hat/sunscreen), sturdy boots for lava and scree, warm sleeping layer for highland nights
Did You Know
Lalibela’s monolithic churches were carved from one continuous piece of volcanic tuff and remained in use since the 12th century—UNESCO lists the site as a World Heritage site.
Quick Travel Tips
Fly into Lalibela Airport (LLI) to start; pack extra cash for market purchases; bring a compact first-aid kit; respect Afar cultural norms and ask before photos
Local Flavor
After a day in the churches, try injera with tibs at a local eatery, attend a coffee ceremony in town, and sample tej (honey wine) in a small guesthouse. In the Danakil approach towns, buy salt-carved souvenirs directly from Afar artisans to support local livelihoods.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest airport / trailhead: Lalibela Airport (LLI). Driving distance to Danakil region: ~350–450 km depending on route; expect long 4x4 transfers (7–12 hours). Cell service: limited to none in Danakil. Permits: Required for Afar region—operator will secure them.
Sustainability Note
The Danakil’s thermal and microbial features are ecologically sensitive; stay on established tracks, pack out waste, and avoid removing salt slabs or geological samples.