Below the Rift: Crossing the Danakil Depression to See Erta Ale and Dallol
Three days, a lava lake and hydrothermal alien landscapes—how to travel the hottest, most otherworldly corner of Ethiopia
You break the horizon at first light and the land answers like a furnace. The road from Mekele winds through scrub and basalt, then it simply ends—there is no more road to the Danakil Depression, only salt-carved tracks and a horizon that looks as if the earth has been peeled back. On a three-day loop you trade asphalt for four-wheel-drive dust, swap hotel beds for flat tents and the predictable for a place where the ground steams and color behaves badly. At Dallol, fluorescent pools bubble like a painter’s nightmare; at Erta Ale, a ribbon of lava churns in a stubbornly alive cauldron. It’s not pretty in the gentle sense—it's violent, raw and, for those who arrive prepared, unforgettable.
Trail Wisdom
Hydrate Before You Need It
Drink regularly—aim for 3–4 liters per day in hot months—because heat-related symptoms can come on quickly in the depression.
Go With Local Guides
Hire experienced Afar guides to handle permits, navigation and safety on volcanic terrain and during night approaches to Erta Ale.
Protect Against Acidic Steam
Avoid getting too close to steaming pools at Dallol; wear a bandana or buff to filter irritating fumes and use eye protection if wind changes suddenly.
Footwear for Black Rock
Wear sturdy boots with good ankle support for volcanic scree around Erta Ale and for trekking between camps.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Watch sunrise over the salt flats for incredible, changing reflections
- •Afar salt caravan tracks—ask your guide to point out old caravan routes and salt-cut marks
Wildlife
Dromedary camels (domestic caravans), Desert foxes and occasional birdlife such as larks
Conservation Note
The region is ecologically fragile—avoid trampling delicate crusts at Dallol, pack out all waste, and travel only with licensed operators to reduce impact.
The Danakil salt trade has been practiced for centuries by the Afar people, who still transport salt slabs by camel between mines and markets.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Cooler daytime temperatures, Clear skies for photography
Challenges: Residual seasonal heat, Dusty winds
Spring offers milder heat than summer and sharp light for color at Dallol, though winds and dust can still be an issue.
summer
Best for: Minimal rain interference, Most tour availability
Challenges: Extreme daytime heat, High dehydration risk
Summer is the hottest time—plan activities early/late and prioritize hydration and shade where possible.
fall
Best for: Comfortable evenings, Good volcanic viewing conditions
Challenges: Unpredictable transport due to rains elsewhere, Limited infrastructure
Fall balances heat and comfort; evenings cool nicely and volcanic features remain dramatic.
winter
Best for: Cooler days for trekking, Clear night skies for stargazing
Challenges: Cold nights in camps, Shorter daylight hours
Winter has the most comfortable daytime temperatures but expect cold nights—bring warm layers for camp.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Sturdy Hiking BootsEssential
Provides traction and ankle support on volcanic scree and uneven salt crusts.
3–4L Hydration System or Water BottlesEssential
Critical for avoiding dehydration in the extreme heat of the depression.
High-SPF Sunscreen and Wide-Brim HatEssential
Protects skin from sustained sun exposure across reflective salt flats.
Warm Layer and Sleeping Bag (Rated to 0°C)Essential
Nights can get cold at desert camps—bring a warm layer and appropriate sleeping insulation.
Common Questions
Do I need a permit to visit the Danakil Depression?
Yes—most operators include necessary permits and security arrangements; independent travel is discouraged due to local regulations and safety.
How dangerous is it to visit Erta Ale?
Erta Ale requires caution: the terrain is unstable, lava is unpredictable and night approaches need experienced guides; risk is manageable with a reputable operator and proper gear.
What kind of accommodation is provided?
Typical trips use simple desert camps with canvas tents and communal dining; some operators offer basic sleeping mats and meals but standards vary—confirm inclusions ahead of time.
Is the tour suitable for children or older travelers?
The tour is physically demanding and involves long drives and nighttime hikes; suitability depends on mobility, heat tolerance and medical considerations—consult the operator.
When is the best time of day to visit Dallol and Erta Ale?
Dawn and late afternoon yield the best light and cooler conditions for Dallol, while Erta Ale is typically visited at night to see the lava glow.
Can I photograph people and cultural sites?
Always ask permission before photographing Afar people—many will allow it but expect a polite exchange or small fee for posed portraits in some cases.
What to Pack
Hydration system (3–4L), sun protection (hat/sunscreen), sturdy hiking boots, warm camp layer — for heat management, footing and cold desert nights
Did You Know
Dallol holds one of the lowest average ground elevations on Earth—around 125 meters below sea level—and is also one of the hottest places year-round.
Quick Travel Tips
Book with a vetted operator from Mekele; carry cash for local fees; travel light but bring a daypack; expect minimal cell service.
Local Flavor
After a day on the salt flats, return to Mekele for injera and stews; try local coffee rituals and look for small restaurants serving grilled meat and pasta—Afar camps also serve strong sweet tea and communal meals with storytelling.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest airport / trailhead: Mekele Airport (MQX) / trip departs from Mekele; Driving distance: ~6–10 hours total on rough roads depending on itinerary; Cell service: intermittent to none in the depression; Permits: Required—usually arranged by operator
Sustainability Note
The Danakil’s fragile mineralscapes and limited water resources mean travelers should stick to established tracks, carry out all trash, and support local guides and communities to keep tourism benefits local.