Above the Clouds: A Six-Day Ascent of Ausangate’s Sacred Summit
A compact, technical expedition that blends high-altitude climbing with Andean culture and glacier travel.
You feel the mountain before you see it: a pale, tooth-like silhouette that swallows the horizon, its upper flanks smeared with blue ice and ancient snow. On the approach from the Pacchanta plateau the air thins and the colors sharpen—the rust of lichen, the slate of moraine, the jewel tones of high Andean lakes. Herds of llamas graze between stone corrals; women in layered polleras weave in the shadow of a peak the Quechua call an Apu—a spirit and guardian of the land. This is Ausangate, and over six precise, demanding days you’ll move from community life to the exposed knife-edge of a 6,384-meter summit.
Trail Wisdom
Prioritize Acclimatization
Arrive in Cusco several days early and follow a slow ascent profile—short hikes at altitude before the expedition reduce AMS risk.
Bring Technical Ice Gear
Crampons, ice axe, harness, and knowledge of front-pointing are required for the 65° section and glacier travel.
Hydrate and Monitor
Sip frequently and use a pulse oximeter if available; early signs of altitude sickness require immediate attention.
Respect Local Rules
Pay community campsite fees, avoid open fires, and follow guide instructions to minimize environmental impact.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Pacchanta hot springs for a post-climb soak
- •High-altitude lakes near the base with vividly colored mineral bands
Wildlife
Andean fox, Vicuña and domesticated llamas
Conservation Note
The Ausangate area is managed through regional conservation initiatives and community agreements; use established campsites, pack out waste, and minimize disturbance to grazing routes.
Ausangate has long been revered in Andean cosmology as an Apu—a sacred mountain—and the surrounding valleys contain pre-Columbian trails and pastoral landscapes maintained by Quechua communities.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Shoulder-season fewer visitors, Early-season snow-scape photography
Challenges: Unstable late-season snow, Variable temperatures
Spring (Sept–Nov local) can offer quieter trails and blooming highland plants, but weather becomes less predictable as the wet season approaches.
summer
Best for: Green valleys and pastoral scenes, Cultural festivals
Challenges: Frequent rain and heavier snow at altitude, Reduced summit windows
Summer (Dec–Feb) is the wet season—expect afternoon storms and higher avalanche risk; not recommended for technical summit attempts.
fall
Best for: Stable, clear weather, Ideal summit windows
Challenges: Cold nights, Potential for early snow at high camps
Fall (Mar–May) transitions to the dry season; conditions improve for climbing but nights remain cold.
winter
Best for: Dry, clear days and excellent visibility, Firm snow and easier cramponing
Challenges: Very cold temperatures, High wind exposure
Winter (Jun–Aug) is the preferred climbing season: cold and stable, with the best odds for a successful summit push.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Double Mountaineering BootsEssential
Stiff, insulated boots provide crampon compatibility and warmth for high camps and summit attempts.
Crampons & Technical Ice ToolsEssential
Front-point crampons and an ice axe/technical tool are required for the steep 65° wall and glacier sections.
High-Altitude Down JacketEssential
A 800-fill down parka keeps you warm during cold bivouacs and summit exposure.
Sleeping Bag (-20°C/-4°F rating)Essential
Cold nights at 4,500–5,200 m require a high-quality sleeping bag for rest and recovery.
Common Questions
Do I need prior alpine climbing experience to join this tour?
Yes—this route includes steep ice and glacier travel; participants should be comfortable on technical mixed terrain or be willing to complete pre-expedition training with guides.
What is the highest altitude reached on the tour?
The summit of Ausangate is 6,384 meters (20,945 feet); high camps reach roughly 5,000–5,200 meters during the push phase.
Are permits required to climb Ausangate?
Operators typically arrange community fees and regional access permissions; confirm with your provider for current requirements and included fees.
How difficult is the technical 65° wall?
It’s a short but steep ice wall that requires front-point cramponing, secure footing, and fixed-rope techniques under guide supervision.
What is the best time of year to attempt the climb?
The dry season—June through September—offers the most stable weather and highest probability of a successful summit.
Will I have cell service during the expedition?
Expect little to no reliable cell service once you leave Pacchanta; guides maintain radio and satellite options for emergencies.
What to Pack
High-altitude boots for crampon use; 800-fill down jacket for warmth; sleeping bag rated to -20°C for cold nights; sunscreen and high-SPF lip balm to combat intense UV.
Did You Know
Ausangate is the highest peak in the Cusco region at 6,384 meters and is considered one of the most important sacred mountains (apus) in Andean belief.
Quick Travel Tips
Fly into Alejandro Velasco Astete (CUZ); plan 2–3 days in Cusco to acclimatize; expect 3–4 hour drive from Cusco to Pacchanta; bring cash for local community fees.
Local Flavor
After the climb, warm up in Pacchanta’s hot springs and sample simple highland fare—stews of alpaca or lamb, potatoes of every color, and coca tea. Back in Cusco, reward yourself with chicha or a craft beer and visit San Pedro Market for handmade textiles and local snacks.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest airport: Alejandro Velasco Astete (CUZ); Trailhead/starting point: Pacchanta community (approx. 3–4 hr drive from Cusco); Cell service: intermittent to none beyond Pacchanta; Permits/fees: community access fees and regional permits often required—confirm with operator.
Sustainability Note
This area is stewarded by local communities—use established campsites, pack out human waste when requested, and pay community fees to support trail maintenance and conservation.