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Zig-Zag Zimulator: A Five-Pitch Trad Challenge on Slhanay’s West Face

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
dirty cracks
stemming
face climbing
multi-pitch
trad rack essential
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Zig-Zag Zimulator
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Explore the compelling five-pitch Zig-Zag Zimulator on Slhanay’s west face—where technical crack climbing merges with bold face moves. This trad route invites climbers to master technical stemming, agile traverses, and sustained finger cracks in a raw coastal wilderness setting."

Zig-Zag Zimulator: A Five-Pitch Trad Challenge on Slhanay’s West Face

Zig-Zag Zimulator presents an invigorating climb carved into the rugged west face of Slhanay, offering a mix of technical crack climbing and bold face moves across five distinct pitches. This route is a compelling link-up that threads together varied terrain—dirty but rewarding cracks, stemming sections, and steep face climbing above bolts, providing a test of skill and endurance for traditional climbers seeking a comprehensive adventure within the Squamish wilderness.

Your ascent begins on Pitch 1 with the Zig-Zag Crack, a 35-meter stretch rated 5.10b. The crack is rough around the edges and carries a bit of dirt, but it rewards your persistence with solid stemming that improves as you ascend. This initial effort sets the tone, engaging your hands and feet in continuous movement while maintaining a gritty edge that demands careful footwork and patience.

Pitch 2 shifts gears to a moderate 5.8 ramp system, familiar to those who’ve explored nearby Jungle Warfare’s pitch three. It offers a welcome breather that culminates at a tree belay—a natural anchor tucked into the rock, allowing for a moment to soak in the surrounding forested ridgelines. From here, the climb intensifies again.

Pitch 3 returns you to the 5.10b difficulty, guiding you beneath an overhanging roof where a rightwards traverse leads past a handful of fixed pitons to a bolted anchor stationed discreetly on a ledge just around the corner. While some rock remains dirty, the climbing is lively and demands focus. Expect a sequence that blends unlocking subtle holds with navigating the exposed traverse, requiring both mental sharpness and secure foot placements.

Pitch 4 ramps up the challenge with a sustained 5.10d face climb. Bolts pepper the wall, overlaying a horizontal fault that later prompts a rightward traverse to the belay point at Flight Simulator. This section is a standout—energetic and engaging—offering clean holds framed by the natural contours of the rock. Climbers will appreciate the balance between technical moves and resting stances along the way, a pitch that rewards precision and stamina in equal measure.

The final pitch, a short but demanding 5.10d finger crack, tests delicate finger strength on vertical terrain before easing into more straightforward climbing that completes the route. The quality of this pitch and the route’s finish as it merges with Jungle Warfare’s descent provide a satisfying climax to the journey.

Protection gear ranging from small cams (SR) up to #3 Camalot will keep you well-equipped, as the route’s cracks offer a variety of placements, though some sections require creativity due to patchy rock and limited pro spots. Fixed gear is present but sparse, so solid trad skills and good judgment in gear placements remain essential.

Located on the west face of Slhanay, accessed from the scenic Squamish area in British Columbia, this climb balances commitment with accessibility. The approach is moderate, bringing you through forest trails that hum with the energy of the coastal wilderness, setting a natural stage for the adventure ahead. Plan your climb for morning to midday to benefit from the sun warming the face, while afternoon shade offers welcome relief during summer months.

Descent follows the route used by Jungle Warfare—a walk-off that winds down through rocky terrain and forested slopes. The exit is straightforward but demands attention to footing, especially when tired after the climb.

Zig-Zag Zimulator is a route that appeals to those looking to push their trad skills through varied climbing styles in a setting that pulses with wilderness character. From its crack-stemmed beginnings to the challenging finger locks that close the day, this route offers a polished taste of Squamish’s dynamic climbing scene with enough technical spice and natural grit to satisfy seasoned climbers ready for their next adventure.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on dirty sections—loose rock and dirt can obscure holds and protection spots. The fixed pitons are limited and aged, so double-check anchors and gear placements. The descent, while straightforward, includes rocky slopes that can be slick when wet, so approach with proper footwear and patience.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon shade on the west-facing wall during summer.

Brush and clean gear placements where possible to improve protection and reduce dirt in cracks.

Use fixed pitons for anchors cautiously; always back them up with your own gear.

Plan a steady pace as some pitches have sustained sequences that test endurance.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10d, the climb demands solid technique with a crux on the fourth pitch’s face climbing and the final finger crack. The rating feels true to the challenge, with some pitches (like P3) being cleaner in moves but made trickier by the patchy rock and dirt. Compared to other Squamish trad routes, it sits as a solid benchmark for sustained technical climbing where gear placements add to the challenge.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack with cams from small sizes (SR) up to #3 Camalots. Expect varied placements in cracks that can be patchy or dirty, requiring careful gear placement and solid trad judgment for protection.

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Tags

finger crack
dirty cracks
stemming
face climbing
multi-pitch
trad rack essential