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Zephyr Girls Trad Climb at The Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
V-shaped groove
traversing crack
single pitch
beginner friendly
granite
small gear
western exposure
Length: 59 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Zephyr Girls
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Zephyr Girls is a clean, single-pitch trad climb weaving along a distinctive V-groove and traversing crack at The Smoke Bluffs. Friendly for newcomers yet engaging enough to sharpen crack climbing skills, this route delivers authentic Squamish granite adventure just steps from town."

Zephyr Girls Trad Climb at The Smoke Bluffs

Zephyr Girls presents a straightforward yet engaging single-pitch trad climb tucked within the lively granite expanse of The Smoke Bluffs near Squamish, British Columbia. As the route ascends 59 feet, it carves a path along a distinct V-shaped groove that serves as the gateway to a ledge just beneath the climb's defining crux. The groove demands steady footwork, rewarding climbers with a tactile engagement against the cool, textured granite.

From this ledge, the route extends rightwards, inviting climbers to navigate a traversing crack that offers both a physical and mental rhythm, a shared section with the nearby Kristen route. The crack pulses with the presence of the rock, inviting confident jamming techniques that test your grip and body position. As you reach the upper section, the climb culminates by ascending a cracked groove just to the right of the Business Time finishing slab, providing a satisfying conclusion that challenges balance and precision.

For those seeking heightened challenge, the Boobie Salad variation ups the ante with a 5.8 rating, climbing directly from the ledge straight up a crack to top out on Colleen. This alternative injects a steeper, more sustained effort, appealing to climbers ready to push beyond the comfortable grade.

Protection on Zephyr Girls primarily relies on small cams and nuts, with the route rated SR (some risk), so diligent placement and careful pro assessment are essential. The granite here is solid but requires keen attention to gear placements, especially as the cracks narrow in sections. The area sits just outside Squamish, offering a dynamic climbing environment amid a well-traveled outdoor community.

Climbers approaching The Smoke Bluffs will appreciate the well-maintained trails leading to the base, clocking an easy 10-15 minute hike from the parking area. The terrain around is open, with light forest coverage that allows morning sun to warm the rock early in the day while offering shade during late afternoon. The climb’s west-facing aspect makes it ideal for morning ascents in warmer months, whereas spring and fall provide cooler, more comfortable conditions year-round.

While the route is accessible to beginners with basic crack climbing skills, the traversing crack and ledge transitions require focus and careful foot placements. Bring sturdy, comfortable climbing shoes with good smearing ability to handle slabby sections. Staying hydrated is crucial, especially as the approach and climbing demand steady exertion under sun exposure.

Upon completion, descent is straightforward via a short walk-off down the access trail — no rappel gear needed. This allows for a smooth transition back to trail or to explore nearby climbs within the Bluffs.

Zephyr Girls offers a rewarding introduction to trad climbing in one of Canada’s most vibrant climbing communities. It balances inviting moves with technical demands, making it a great choice for climbers eager to sharpen their protection skills and enjoy Squamish’s stunning granite playground.

Climber Safety

Watch for limited protection options in the tighter crack sections; test placements carefully. The ledge below the crux is small and requires precise footwork to maintain balance. Approach trails are mostly smooth but remain alert for loose stones near the base.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length59 feet

Local Tips

Approach on well-marked trails from the main parking for a quick 10-15 minute walk.

Start early to enjoy shade and cooler temperatures on the west-facing wall.

Bring climbing shoes with a sticky sole for smearing slabby sections.

Hydrate well — sun exposure is high during midday on exposed sections of the trail.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:Zephyr Girls holds a straightforward 5.6 rating that feels approachable for trad climbers stepping into crack climbing. The technical crux resides in the delicate footwork through the V-shaped groove and the traversing crack, raising the route's challenge without pushing into stiff territory. Compared to other local climbs, it offers one of the gentler introductions to trad protection placement and crack technique around The Smoke Bluffs.

Gear Requirements

Small to medium cams and nuts are essential for consistent protection along the groove and traversing crack. The route carries an SR rating, so placements demand close attention, especially in tighter sections where pro can be sparse.

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Tags

V-shaped groove
traversing crack
single pitch
beginner friendly
granite
small gear
western exposure