"Xenolith Dance offers a sharp, two-pitch sport climb on Squamish’s Bulletheads South with technical face moves and precise bolt protection. Ideal as a next step after Slot Machine, this route combines smooth granite with measured challenges."
Xenolith Dance offers an engaging sport climbing experience set on the rugged faces of Squamish’s Bulletheads South, a part of The Chief’s famed granite walls. This two-pitch route presents a precise challenge, demanding controlled movement and attention to detail. The first pitch, secured by nine bolts, unfolds with delicate sequences that test finger strength and balance, teasing the climber with slender edges and subtle crimps. As the wall stretches upward, the second pitch continues the flow through seven bolts, less stiff but requiring sustained commitment to reach the top of the face. The granite here feels alive under your fingertips, cool and textured, while the wall’s exposure invites sweeping views of the forested valley below. The route’s location makes it an excellent follow-up to the nearby Slot Machine climb, sharing trail access and an approach that keeps the transition smooth and efficient. Approaching the start, you’ll find the route begins from the third bolt line from the right, sharing its initial moves with the more demanding Shannon’s Dancing (11a), offering options depending on your mood and skill. Gear-wise, quickdraws are the order of the day, as bolts protect every move, allowing climbers to focus fully on technique and body positioning. With just over 40 votes averaging near 3 stars on popular climbing platforms, Xenolith Dance stands as a solid choice for those seeking to sharpen their sport climbing skills on classic Squamish granite without the crowds heavier lines can attract. Timing a climb here during clear weather and moderate temperatures helps the rock maintain good friction, especially in spring and early summer when Squamish’s temperate climate shines. Descending involves a straightforward double rope rappel or a walk-off along established trails, so maintain awareness for loose rock near the belay stations. This climb embodies an accessible technical adventure—demanding, rewarding, and perfectly positioned for those looking to add finesse to their Squamish objectives.
Watch your footing on the more delicate sequences of the first pitch; the rock is solid but some edges demand attention to prevent slips. The rappel stations are secure but bring a backup sling and check your anchors carefully. Be mindful of loose rock near the belays when preparing to descend.
Start from the third bolt line on the right, sharing the first moves with Shannon’s Dancing (11a).
Approach from the top of Slot Machine for a quick walk-in to the route.
Spring and early summer offer the best friction and weather for climbing here.
Prepare for a double rope rappel or a cautious walk-off on descent to avoid loose rock hazards.
Quickdraws are essential for this sport climb, as the route is fully bolted over two pitches. Plan on bringing enough quickdraws to clip every bolt without skipping protection. The bolts are well placed, allowing for secure clipping on the delicate face moves.
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