"Wire Brush Special offers a classic 80-foot trad crack climb in New Brunswick’s Great Roof Area. With varied finger and hand jams, this approachable 5.5 route challenges your technique while offering solid protection and a memorable connection to local climbing history."
Wire Brush Special offers a straightforward but thoroughly enjoyable finger and hand crack climb that delivers solid trad climbing in a quiet corner of New Brunswick. The route stretches approximately 80 feet up, inviting climbers to test their jam technique on a sequence of varied crack widths that challenge your grip without overwhelming you. This climb retains a welcoming attitude, a legacy from its original 5.1 rating in 1977 that’s since been revised to a more realistic 5.5 to reflect modern grading standards. Along the way, the crack tightens and expands, requiring patience and precise hand positioning — a satisfying workout for those who appreciate clean, crack-focused movement.
Set in The Great Roof Area within the Eagle Rock sector near Welsford, the climb benefits from a rugged, natural setting framed by soaring granite walls and accessible from moderate trails. The protection calls for a standard rack up to a 3-inch piece, with solid trees above offering reliable anchors for the descent. Because the line shares its top-out with Tom's Route, the feel of this climb is interconnected with the local traditions and history of climbing in this corner of Canada.
While the length is manageable with a single pitch, the sustained crack climbing will keep you engaged, making it an ideal route for trad beginners eager to hone their gear placements and crack techniques in safe but rewarding terrain. The rock quality is solid, with few loose sections, and the hand jams feel secure if you know how to read the line. For anyone visiting the area, this climb is a practical introduction to the style of climbing offered by The Great Roof Area, combining straightforward logistics with well-protected moves.
Prepare for your ascent with sturdy climbing shoes and gloves if your skin is sensitive, and ensure you carry a full rack to 3 inches for confident and comfortable placements. The approach trail is short but somewhat rugged, best tackled with footwear suited for uneven terrain. Morning to midday climbs are preferable for drier conditions and steady light, as the wall faces east to southeast, warming quickly with the sun’s arrival.
Safety-wise, pay special attention to the tree anchors; though reliable, they require careful setup and inspection to guarantee a smooth rappel or walk-off. The climb's moderate grade doesn’t eliminate the need for caution, especially when managing gear placements on a crack that, while friendly, demands focus. Wind and wet rock can amplify risk here, so always check conditions and respect the mountain’s mood.
Wire Brush Special captures the spirit of trad climbing in the Maritimes—accessible yet offering enough challenge to leave each climber feeling accomplished. Whether you’re stepping onto your first real crack climb or adding a solid 5.5 to your logbook, this route provides an engaging experience anchored in rich climbing heritage and approachable terrain.
Be vigilant with gear placements—the crack demands well-placed pro, especially since the top-out relies on tree anchors. Avoid climbing when the rock is wet, as friction drops and hand jams become unreliable. Check the anchor trees for stability before your descent.
Approach trail is short but rocky—wear sturdy shoes with good traction.
Best climbed during morning to midday for optimal sun exposure and dry rock.
Inspect and triple-check tree anchors for a safe rappel back down.
Maintain steady jam technique; variety of crack sizes requires adaptability.
Carry a standard trad rack up to 3 inches to protect this crack climb comfortably. Use tree anchors at the top for a secure rappel. Bring gloves if your skin is sensitive to maintain grip and protect against friction burns.
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