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Wind Tree at Eagle Lake Buttress: A Classic Trad Climb with Alpine Flair

South Lake Tahoe,California ,United States
crack climbing
trad gear
multi-pitch
alpine environment
moderate exposure
Grade: 5.9
Length: ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Wind Tree
Aspect
South Facing

Wind Tree

5.9, Trad, Alpine

South Lake Tahoe

California ,United States

Overview

"Wind Tree offers a memorable alpine trad climb on Eagle Lake Buttress, following a left-leaning crack system to a wind-shaped juniper summit. With three pitches of solid granite and varied climbing, this route blends technical cracks with stunning canyon views."

Wind Tree at Eagle Lake Buttress: A Classic Trad Climb with Alpine Flair

Perched high on the rugged Eagle Lake Buttress, a single wind-shaped juniper stands guard above the crag, setting the stage for the Wind Tree route. This classic alpine trad climb traces a distinct left-leaning crack system that tests your gear skills and movement over three engaging pitches. From the start, the approach requires steady footing as you gain a ledge roughly 40 feet above the ground. Here, the climb transitions into a prominent "V" formed by two cracks, where taking the left crack leads you to a solid belay stance.

The rock here demands attention: expect a steep section that challenges your balance and footwork before the line arcs gracefully towards a vegetated dihedral. Though the dihedral itself is nearly reached, the route swings right along solid knobs to find a clean crack that pushes you upward and to the right, aiming directly for the iconic juniper known as the Wind Tree.

The final stretch requires a deliberate traverse followed by a climb through a series of cracks that deliver both technical moves and a satisfying sense of exposure as you top out on the summit. Protection up to 3 inches is essential—gear placements are reliable but require careful selection and placement to ensure safety.

Eagle Lake Buttress sits against the backdrop of Lake Tahoe’s serene waters to the west and the wild reaches of Eagle Creek Canyon. The surrounding alpine environment fills the air with the sharp scent of pine and juniper, while occasional breezes whisper through the crag, reminding climbers of the elevation and openness that define this climb.

Approach time is moderate, with well-marked trails that wind through mixed forest and granite slabs, setting a purposeful tone before you even reach the first belay. The Wind Tree climb blends engaging climbing with alpine solitude, offering a rewarding challenge for trad climbers comfortable with varied crack techniques and moderate exposure. Timing your ascent during mild spring or fall weather ensures dry rock and fewer crowds, while early starts help avoid the warming sun as you navigate the upper pitches.

Climber Safety

Some ledges are small and require precise belays; ensure anchors are solid and double-check gear placements, especially in the steep, overhung mid-section. Weather can shift quickly in alpine terrain, so plan accordingly and avoid climbing if rock is damp.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach via the West Shore Trail, expect moderate terrain and allow 30-45 minutes to the base.

Start early in the day to avoid sun exposure on upper pitches and benefit from cooler temps.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with solid edging ability to tackle the varied crack widths.

Check weather forecasts, as alpine conditions can change quickly, and wet rock makes protection tricky.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade on Wind Tree feels solid but accessible, with sustained crack climbing and a noticeable crux on the steep third pitch. The rating leans slightly on the harder side of traditional 5.9 routes due to the gear placements and route-finding challenges. Compared to nearby Lake Tahoe classics, it offers a focused experience with consistent technical moves rather than run-out slabs.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack with plenty of protection up to 3 inches. The crack sizes vary, so be prepared for tricky placements and use cams for secure holds, especially on the steep mid-pitch section.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad gear
multi-pitch
alpine environment
moderate exposure