"High Falls Crag in Wilmington Notch is an Adirondack winter favorite—four bold ice climbs just steps from the Ausable River. The approach can be straightforward or burly, but those who make the trek are rewarded with iconic routes and camaraderie amid the snow-clad trees."
In the chill of an Adirondack winter, Wilmington Notch - High Falls Crag becomes the domain of determined ice climbers seeking steep lines and the pulse of genuine adventure. This compact, rugged crag sits just south of the thundering High Falls Gorge, where frozen curtains and pillars punch skyward from the banks of the Ausable River. Come the heart of ice season, ropes and laughter echo through the trees as climbers from all over the Northeast chase perfect swings and frosted challenges on this prominent 250-foot cliff.
High Falls Crag grabs winter crowds for a reason. Multiplication Gully, the crag’s marquee line, ranks among the finest moderate ice climbs in the Adirondacks. With Blue Lines: An Adirondack Ice Climbers Guide by Don Mellor as the essential reference, you’ll find every swing, screw, and belay carefully catalogued for committed leaders and first-timers alike.
Approaching the crag is a trial by snow: depending on conditions, the 3/4 mile trek from the road can be as straightforward as following an obvious boot pack through snow-dusted woods, or as punishing as wallowing waist-deep in fresh drifts, especially if no one has broken trail. The week’s weather and the number of recent visitors dictate your fate. Start early if you want solitude, or arrive mid-morning for stomped-down tracks. With every step, the anticipation builds—a natural part of every Adirondack outing.
Once you reach the base, the setting feels wild and immense. Forest-clad slopes box you in—thick conifers brushing against steep, ice-lined stone. The buzz of the nearby river is muffled under heavy snow, broken only by the clink of metal and the staccato rhythm of tools biting good ice. Four proud lines draw in teams, but the limited real estate means you make fast friends at belay stances, swapping beta and cold-weather tactics as you wait your turn.
Multiplication Gully (WI3) rightfully holds classic status: a steady, sweeping gash of blue and white, with moderate technical challenges and consistent, secure placements. It's a genuine rite of passage in the Adirondacks, demanding solid footwork and confident tool placements—but forgiving enough for those looking to step up their game. The rest of the climbs share that direct, vertical character that makes for honest, rewarding pitches well above the river, bracketed by views both bleak and beautiful in the winter light.
Because High Falls Crag is mainly an ice venue, expect conditions to change throughout the season. Good screws, solid anchors, and an eye for reading ice are essential; experienced parties double down on redundant rappels and manage ropes carefully on crowded days. The protection, while generally straightforward, rewards conservative lead tactics—bring a full rack of screws in a range of sizes and consider extra cord for v-thread building at stations.
Climbers are drawn here both for the climbing and the scene. The camaraderie can turn even a frigid day into a celebration of the season, as ropes dangle and the echoes of laughter mix with the wind. On weekends, prepare to share—but on a weekday after a storm, you just might have the blue lanes to yourself, the hush broken only by your own breath and the sharp chirp of front points on frozen turf.
Approach conditions can be unpredictable—deep snow, icy scrambles, and variable trail breaking. Double-check anchors and stay alert for overhead ice, especially on crowded or sunny days.
Trail to the crag can be heavily drifted—bring snowshoes after storms.
Weekends are busy; consider early mornings or weekdays for more solitude.
Anchor materials freeze—pack an extra cordalette and keep gear warm inside your jacket.
Multiplication Gully forms reliably but check thickness after thaws or rain.
Bring a full set of modern ice screws in a range of sizes. Prepare for v-threads and consider an extra length of cord for building anchors. Check Blue Lines: An Adirondack Ice Climbers Guide by Don Mellor for detailed topos and rack recommendations.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.