Sunrise Notch Climbing: Sun-Soaked Ice in the Adirondacks

Lake Placid, New York
ice climbing
south-facing
winter sun
river approach
scenic views
Adirondacks
Length: 100–120 ft
Type: Alpine
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Adirondack Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Sunrise Notch offers sun-filled, wind-sheltered ice climbing in a scenic Adirondack setting. Its southern exposure and quiet ambiance make for an exceptional winter outing, with classic climbs like Bear Claw and excellent views of High Falls Crag."

Sunrise Notch Climbing: Sun-Soaked Ice in the Adirondacks

On frosty mornings in the Adirondack backcountry, Sunrise Notch delivers an experience that’s equal parts wild challenge and serene beauty. Just outside the buzz of Lake Placid, this south-facing crag draws ice climbers looking for both warmth and adventure—its orientation grants generous sunlight and a wind-sheltered haven smack in the heart of winter’s grip. Here, the ice glows under open skies, thawing your spirits even as your crampons bite the cold.

Access isn’t a gimme, especially before conditions line up. You’ll start by parking as you would for High Falls Crag, then trace NY 86 a short way, scanning for the valley framed by Little Whiteface and Sunrise Mountain. The first rule from the local playbook: river crossings on the Ausable demand respect. Only attempt the crossing when the ice is solid and safe—uncertain river conditions can turn adventure into real hazard fast. Once on the far side, the wild hush of the Adirondacks settles in. Track north-northwest along the drainage; eventually, a gleaming sweep of ice—the Bear Claw—signals you’ve arrived at the day’s arena.

Unlike many Adirondack ice spots that battle shade and biting wind, Sunrise Notch stands out for its relative comfort and views that open to High Falls Crag. Sitting at 1,744 feet, you’ll find plenty of sun even in deep winter, letting you climb in a little more comfort while the cold lingers just beyond the notch. The main attraction, Bear Claw (WI3), is a classic for a reason: its broad flow offers varied lines and a reliable climb, making it a favorite for repeat visits and new tick-lists alike. With its four-and-a-half star reputation, Bear Claw provides just enough challenge to keep things interesting but remains accessible for most intermediate ice climbers.

The vibe here is tranquil but charged with possibility. The area is less trafficked, so don’t expect crowds—just the crunch of your boots over snow and the sound of your tools striking solid, often bulletproof, Adirondack ice. Keep an eye out for sweeping views back toward High Falls Crag, especially when the sun lights up the landscape in the afternoon, washing the entire notch in golden warmth.

While the route count is modest, the setting is immersive and the experiences are memorable, whether you’re chasing your first Adirondack ice or returning for the sense of quiet achieved only in corners like these. Between the radiant southern exposure and the natural wind shelter, Sunrise Notch offers rare luxury among the region’s winter crags.

Planning is key: river crossings cannot be trusted unless deep freeze conditions have held steady. Many locals wait for mid-winter cold snaps, watching temperatures and river ice carefully before committing. Once you’re in, the approach is straightforward but can be steep and snowy—bring solid winter hiking boots or snowshoes if post-holing is on the menu.

Sunrise Notch caters best to those looking for a low-key, sunny day out and boasts one of the more pleasant Adirondack winter approaches—when the conditions allow it. Every swing and placement feels earned, and every pause is met with big sky views and the kind of peace that’s hard to find anywhere but the Adirondacks in deep winter. Whether Bear Claw is your main objective or simply a stepping stone to more remote dreams, Sunrise Notch stands out: not just as a climbing destination, but as a reminder that the right conditions can turn a simple crag into something extraordinary.

Climber Safety

Never cross the Ausable River unless you are certain the ice is fully frozen; conditions change rapidly and may be hazardous even after cold spells. Always carry rescue gear and know self-rescue techniques for winter environments.

Area Details

TypeAlpine
Pitchessingle pitch
Length100–120 feet

Local Tips

Aim for a sunny day—south-facing orientation keeps you warmer at the crag.

Check Ausable River conditions frequently; only cross when the ice is fully solid.

Bring a backup navigation method—GPS or a map—as trails can be hard to follow after snowfall.

Early mornings offer quieter approaches and the best quality ice.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Bear Claw is rated WI3 and delivers as expected—solid Adirondack WI3 with straightforward, sustained climbing. Climbers familiar with Adirondack grades will find the grades fair; no significant sandbagging reported. Compared to busier areas like Chapel Pond, Sunrise Notch offers a peaceful vibe with similarly reliable conditions but less traffic.

Gear Requirements

Standard Adirondack ice rack: bring screws in various lengths, a pair of technical ice tools, and sturdy mountaineering boots. Snowshoes may be helpful for deeper snow on the approach. Always check the thickness of the river ice before crossing.

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Tags

ice climbing
south-facing
winter sun
river approach
scenic views
Adirondacks